What's Contemporary Now?

• Claire Thomson-Jonville and the Vogue France of It All

  Some may have balked at the news that a Brit would take the helm of Vogue France, but anyone familiar with Claire Thomson-Jonville knows she has long been fluent in the visual and cultural codes that define the brand. Her Instagram alone reads like a prelude to her appointment—an archive of nuanced Parisian style, shaped by years of aesthetic consistency and editorial clarity. No surprise, then, that Anna Wintour has called her the embodiment of French chic. In this episode, we speak with Claire about her longstanding creative partnership—and rare level of trust—with Alastair McKimm, the growing relevance of wellness both within the pages of the magazine and through Vogue France's first-ever wellness retreat launching this summer, and the references she’s honoring while bringing her own perspective to a title that now operates in a cultural climate markedly different from that of her predecessors. “I’ve always had this instinct to follow the work, not the title. If something felt aligned creatively, I went toward it—even if it didn’t make perfect sense on paper.” - Claire Thomson-Jonville Episode Highlights: From Law to Parisian Culture - Claire shares her unexpected path from studying law at the University of Edinburgh to discovering her creative instincts while studying French cinema and literature at the Sorbonne. A Childhood of Sneakers and Style - Growing up with a father in sports retail and a love for magazines, Claire reflects on how early exposure to both Nike culture and glossy pages shaped her creative lens. Landing in Paris at the Right Time - Her arrival in Paris during a golden cultural era led to part-time work for Time Out, early encounters with the Colette circle, and an immersion in the city’s creative pulse. The Self Service Years - Working with Ezra Petronio and Suzanne Koller at Self Service taught Claire the discipline of image-making, the rigors of independent publishing, and the foundations of her visual language. Freelance Freedom and the Rise of Instagram - Embracing the early days of Instagram, Claire turned consistency and curation into a visual brand—one that foreshadowed her future role at Vogue France. Redefining French Vogue - Claire discusses what it means to inherit a legacy brand in a global digital age, and why feeling like an insider-outsider has helped her lead with authenticity. Realness in Luxury - From vintage-inspired minimalism to publishing knickers on a full page, Claire explores how today’s luxury is less about logos and more about time, space, and storytelling. Wellness as Editorial Philosophy - Claire opens up about her wellness routines, Hyrox training, and the upcoming Vogue France wellness retreat—redefining what modern leadership and luxury can look like. Creative Partnership with Alastair McKimm - Her longtime collaboration with Alastair, from i-D to Vogue, reflects a deep trust and shared vision—built on mutual respect and a belief in timeless French fashion codes. What’s Contemporary Now? - Claire answers the episode’s signature question: “Knowing yourself and following your instincts.” A fitting closing thought from someone who’s done exactly that throughout her career. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

  --------  

  28:33
• The Editor as Curator with Sarah Harrelson on Building CULTURED

  Sarah Harrelson, founder and editor-in-chief of CULTURED magazine, joins us to discuss what it means to engage the culture rather than simply cover it. From her early training as a competitive equestrian to her unexpected pivot from politics to publishing, Harrelson shares how discipline, curiosity, and an eye for the underdog have informed her editorial approach. We talk about the magazine’s evolution—from its roots in print to its growing influence across art, fashion, and design—and why events were always central to the brand’s DNA. She reflects on building access without elitism, maintaining integrity in a metrics-driven world, and what feels truly contemporary now. “People think I’m very social, but I’m actually most comfortable standing quietly in a room, observing. That’s how I learned—watching how people move, how power shifts, how conversations unfold. I think that shaped my sense of how to tell stories.” - Sarah Harrelson  Episode Highlights: The Discipline of Beauty - Sarah’s early life as a competitive equestrian instilled a love of visual precision, self-discipline, and independence—elements that continue to shape her editorial eye. From Politics to Publishing - With a college focus on the politics of poverty, Sarah originally envisioned a career in public service. That political awareness now informs her coverage of art, fashion, and the underdog stories that drive CULTURED. Shyness as Superpower - Once a shy child, Sarah reveals how observing from the sidelines helped her understand power dynamics, refine her instincts, and eventually find her editorial voice. Why She Built CULTURED Around Events - Events have been a core pillar of CULTURED since its inception—intimate, thoughtful gatherings that bring creative disciplines together and foster unexpected connections. The Anti-Algorithmic Editorial Approach - Sarah is unapologetic about choosing stories based on meaning rather than metrics, spotlighting talent before the industry catches on—even if it means fewer clicks. The Art of Cross-Pollination - Long before it became standard, Sarah was curating spaces where fashion designers, artists, architects, and tech figures could genuinely connect—not network, but engage. Rejecting Editorial Rigidity - In response to legacy media’s narrow guidelines, Sarah launched CULTURED with a rebellious spirit—including two blank pages in the first issue to make a statement about creative freedom. The Power of Staying Grounded - With three kids and a close-knit personal circle, Sarah prioritizes time, presence, and humility. “I don't like cliques,” she says. “I'm interested in being inclusive.” Cultured VIP & Democratizing Access - Through the CULTURED VIP program, she’s opening doors to readers who don’t always have access—offering things like museum tours, studio visits, and meaningful cultural experiences. What’s Contemporary Now? - For Sarah, contemporaneity isn’t about what’s trending—it’s about authenticity, curiosity, and kindness. A genuine lens, she says, is the most powerful tool any cultural voice can have. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

  --------  

  25:16
• Mastermind, Media, and the Power of Time with Marie-Amélie Sauvé

  Few figures have shaped fashion’s visual language like Marie-Amélie Sauvé. From her formative years at French Vogue to her lasting collaborations with Nicolas Ghesquière, she has navigated an industry that thrives on change while staying true to her creative convictions. In this episode, Sauvé reflects on the golden era of editorial freedom, the founding of her own magazine, Mastermind, and why true innovation demands risk. She also shares how yoga sharpens her creative discipline, why she gravitates toward brands in need of reinvention, and what she believes is fashion’s biggest challenge today. A rare glimpse into the mind of one of the industry's most influential yet elusive figures. "Mastermind isn’t just about fashion. It’s about cinema, architecture, politics—because if you only look at fashion, you miss the bigger picture." - Marie-Amélie Sauvé Episode Highlights: Growing up with fashion in France – Fashion was as much a part of daily life as literature and gastronomy in her upbringing, shaping her early perspective. Landing an internship at French Vogue – Her mother’s love for fashion led to an opportunity at Vogue Paris, where she was first exposed to industry legends like André Leon Talley, Helmut Newton, and Guy Bourdin. The golden era of French Vogue – Describes the unparalleled creative freedom of the magazine at the time, where editors and photographers could push boundaries without advertiser interference. Why she left Vogue to go freelance – She wanted a deeper understanding of how clothes were made and how designers shaped the industry, rather than just styling full looks in editorials. How yoga shapes her creative process – She practices Iyengar yoga daily, valuing its emphasis on precision and discipline, which mirrors her approach to fashion and creative direction. Why she created Mastermind – She wanted a magazine that balanced fashion with architecture, politics, cinema, and philosophy, giving equal weight to journalism and imagery. The longstanding creative relationship with Nicolas Ghesquière – She and Nicolas "grew up together" in the industry, sharing an obsession with research, reinvention, and pushing creative boundaries. Why true innovation requires risk – She reflects on how the most memorable fashion moments come from pushing boundaries, rather than playing it safe within industry expectations. Fashion’s democratic shift – Acknowledges that while fashion is now more accessible, standing out requires an even stronger creative perspective and sense of individuality. What’s contemporary now? – Time. In an era of constant acceleration, she believes the most valuable thing is having enough time to slow down, focus, and create with intention. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

  --------  

  22:14
• Why Fashion Needs a Revolution—A 1Granary Perspective

  Fashion thrives on newness but resists change, celebrates young designers yet makes survival nearly impossible. Olya Kuryshchuk, founder of 1Granary, knows this contradiction well. What began as a student-run blog at Central Saint Martins has become one of the industry’s most unfiltered voices, exposing the gaps between talent, opportunity, and success. In this episode, Kuryshchuk unpacks why magazine editors are shifting to brand consulting, how ageism shapes studio culture, and why true innovation isn’t about aesthetics but structure, sustainability, and survival. With characteristic candor, she lays bare fashion’s broken pipeline, the illusion of overnight success, and what it actually takes to build a lasting career today. "What’s contemporary now? Long-term thinking. Creating with intention. The industry is obsessed with speed, but the future belongs to those who build for longevity." - Olya Kuryshchuk Episode Highlights: The Birth of 1Granary – What started as a student project at Central Saint Martins became a global fashion education platform. The Reality of Fashion Education – A degree from a top school doesn’t guarantee success—80% of graduates don’t find jobs in the industry. Acting as a Designer Union – 1Granary advocates for young designers, exposing industry flaws and providing career guidance. The Power of Community – Success in fashion isn’t just about talent; strategic relationships and collaborations shape careers. Why Editors Are Moving to Brand Consulting – Traditional media salaries are low, while brands offer better pay and creative freedom. Ageism in Fashion – Studios are filled with designers under 30, and career paths for women over 40 are nearly nonexistent. The Industry’s Broken Pipeline – Young designers either join big brands or struggle to launch their own—a middle path is missing. The Harsh Truth About Fashion’s Business Model – Many emerging designers can’t sustain their brands, despite industry hype. Fashion’s Double Standard on Sustainability – Big brands have the power to create real change, but it’s indie designers who often lead the charge. What’s Contemporary Now? – Long-term thinking—in an industry obsessed with speed, real impact comes from sustainability and intention. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

  --------  

  35:12
• Beyond the Fit: Jahleel Weaver on Style & Cultural Influence

  For years, celebrity stylists were seen as separate from those consulting for brands and shaping fashion imagery. But the red carpet, like concerts and live performances, is its own battleground - one where fashion meets spectacle and commands cultural attention. Today, with "earned media value" driving the industry, the role of the celebrity stylist has become central, crafting moments that break through the algorithmic noise and recall an era when culture felt more unified. Few understand this better than Jahleel Weaver, whose work with Rihanna, Dua Lipa, and Taylor Russell has positioned him as a defining force at the intersection of fashion, music, and celebrity. In this episode, we move beyond the spectacle to discuss why the work matters more than how it’s received, the power of staying present, and the creative force of surprise. For Weaver, influence is a byproduct, not the goal. "Love doing this podcast stuff, but you know, in general, I would love for the work to just speak for itself and not have to say anything." - Jahleel Weaver Episode Highlights: From Maryland to the Global Stage – Jahleel Weaver reflects on being the first American-born member of his Panamanian-Jamaican family, growing up without creative role models, and how music, film, and fashion shaped his path. The Icons That Shaped His Eye – Madonna’s reinvention, Tom Ford’s world-building, and hip-hop’s lyrical name-dropping all played a role in defining Weaver’s early understanding of style and cultural impact. The Leap Into Styling – A post-recession moment of clarity led him to take styling seriously, which led to an introduction to Mel Ottenberg—a meeting that would change everything. Building Rihanna’s Visual Legacy – Since 2011, Weaver has been a key force behind Rihanna’s evolving image, from styling to creative direction, launching Fenty Corp, and ultimately leading to his role as deputy creative director at LVMH’s Fenty Maison. The Art of Storytelling Through Style – The difference between styling an individual and shaping an entire brand’s creative vision, and why research is at the heart of it all. Mistakes, Learning, and the Internet’s Watchful Eye – Why failure is essential to growth, even in an era where everything is recorded, and how staying true to his instincts became a guiding principle. Music and Fashion: A Lifelong Dialogue – Hip-hop was his first introduction to luxury fashion, serving as both a cultural educator and a gateway to brands that would later become part of his work. Launching His Own Studio – After a decade with Rihanna, Weaver added a new role, creating a studio where he could expand his creative vision across music, film, and fashion. Has Fashion Become Too Popular for Its Own Good? – Weaver discusses how fashion’s explosion in accessibility has blurred the line between admiration and true passion for the industry. What is Contemporary Now? – For Weaver, it’s about being fully present. With so much focus on nostalgia and the future, he sees contemporaneity as fully inhabiting the now. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

  --------  

  25:30

More Arts podcasts

Trending Arts podcasts

About What's Contemporary Now?