What's Contemporary Now?

• Why Fashion Needs a Revolution—A 1Granary Perspective

  Fashion thrives on newness but resists change, celebrates young designers yet makes survival nearly impossible. Olya Kuryshchuk, founder of 1Granary, knows this contradiction well. What began as a student-run blog at Central Saint Martins has become one of the industry’s most unfiltered voices, exposing the gaps between talent, opportunity, and success. In this episode, Kuryshchuk unpacks why magazine editors are shifting to brand consulting, how ageism shapes studio culture, and why true innovation isn’t about aesthetics but structure, sustainability, and survival. With characteristic candor, she lays bare fashion’s broken pipeline, the illusion of overnight success, and what it actually takes to build a lasting career today. "What’s contemporary now? Long-term thinking. Creating with intention. The industry is obsessed with speed, but the future belongs to those who build for longevity." - Olya Kuryshchuk Episode Highlights: The Birth of 1Granary – What started as a student project at Central Saint Martins became a global fashion education platform. The Reality of Fashion Education – A degree from a top school doesn’t guarantee success—80% of graduates don’t find jobs in the industry. Acting as a Designer Union – 1Granary advocates for young designers, exposing industry flaws and providing career guidance. The Power of Community – Success in fashion isn’t just about talent; strategic relationships and collaborations shape careers. Why Editors Are Moving to Brand Consulting – Traditional media salaries are low, while brands offer better pay and creative freedom. Ageism in Fashion – Studios are filled with designers under 30, and career paths for women over 40 are nearly nonexistent. The Industry’s Broken Pipeline – Young designers either join big brands or struggle to launch their own—a middle path is missing. The Harsh Truth About Fashion’s Business Model – Many emerging designers can’t sustain their brands, despite industry hype. Fashion’s Double Standard on Sustainability – Big brands have the power to create real change, but it’s indie designers who often lead the charge. What’s Contemporary Now? – Long-term thinking—in an industry obsessed with speed, real impact comes from sustainability and intention. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

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  35:12
• Beyond the Fit: Jahleel Weaver on Style & Cultural Influence

  For years, celebrity stylists were seen as separate from those consulting for brands and shaping fashion imagery. But the red carpet, like concerts and live performances, is its own battleground - one where fashion meets spectacle and commands cultural attention. Today, with "earned media value" driving the industry, the role of the celebrity stylist has become central, crafting moments that break through the algorithmic noise and recall an era when culture felt more unified. Few understand this better than Jahleel Weaver, whose work with Rihanna, Dua Lipa, and Taylor Russell has positioned him as a defining force at the intersection of fashion, music, and celebrity. In this episode, we move beyond the spectacle to discuss why the work matters more than how it’s received, the power of staying present, and the creative force of surprise. For Weaver, influence is a byproduct, not the goal. "Love doing this podcast stuff, but you know, in general, I would love for the work to just speak for itself and not have to say anything." - Jahleel Weaver Episode Highlights: From Maryland to the Global Stage – Jahleel Weaver reflects on being the first American-born member of his Panamanian-Jamaican family, growing up without creative role models, and how music, film, and fashion shaped his path. The Icons That Shaped His Eye – Madonna’s reinvention, Tom Ford’s world-building, and hip-hop’s lyrical name-dropping all played a role in defining Weaver’s early understanding of style and cultural impact. The Leap Into Styling – A post-recession moment of clarity led him to take styling seriously, which led to an introduction to Mel Ottenberg—a meeting that would change everything. Building Rihanna’s Visual Legacy – Since 2011, Weaver has been a key force behind Rihanna’s evolving image, from styling to creative direction, launching Fenty Corp, and ultimately leading to his role as deputy creative director at LVMH’s Fenty Maison. The Art of Storytelling Through Style – The difference between styling an individual and shaping an entire brand’s creative vision, and why research is at the heart of it all. Mistakes, Learning, and the Internet’s Watchful Eye – Why failure is essential to growth, even in an era where everything is recorded, and how staying true to his instincts became a guiding principle. Music and Fashion: A Lifelong Dialogue – Hip-hop was his first introduction to luxury fashion, serving as both a cultural educator and a gateway to brands that would later become part of his work. Launching His Own Studio – After a decade with Rihanna, Weaver added a new role, creating a studio where he could expand his creative vision across music, film, and fashion. Has Fashion Become Too Popular for Its Own Good? – Weaver discusses how fashion’s explosion in accessibility has blurred the line between admiration and true passion for the industry. What is Contemporary Now? – For Weaver, it’s about being fully present. With so much focus on nostalgia and the future, he sees contemporaneity as fully inhabiting the now. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

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  25:30
• Jesse Lee on the Future of Curation in a Designed World

  The inevitability of change is something we can either fear or embrace with insatiable curiosity, and one of them, of course, yields far better results than the other. Today's guest is a serial entrepreneur and self-described "forever intern" who co-founded Basic.Space, which later acquired Design Miami, where he now serves as chairman. Up next is Design.Space, a project that explores the power of quality curation within an IRL/URL retail experience while bringing together the worlds of design, art, and fashion. In a culture where the concept of community has been co-opted by big business and marketing teams, Jesse Lee shares a different approach that, for this conversation, we’ll call a club. Whether or not you're familiar with the burgeoning world of design and its evolving role in communicating status the way a highly coveted watch or luxury fashion once did, Jesse’s mindset is one to emulate. His perspective is especially valuable for those seeking their own point of convergence where passion and purpose meet in a way that is both meaningful and profitable. "It's not just about the work ethic, but also about wanting to learn. If it wasn't for that mindset, I don't think I'd be able to learn from music, fashion, technology, art, design, culinary—whatever it is. That's sort of been the mantra since day one." - Jesse Lee  Design.Space will showcase a curated selection of archival and contemporary pieces from top artists, designers, galleries, and brands, including: Alexander May, AMEN, Archived, Avery Wheless, Brett Robinson, Brian Thoreen, Cadogan Tate, David Kelley, Enorme, Ettore Sottsass, Found Objects, George Davies, GUFRAM, Guido, Jahlil Nzinga, Jean Pigozzi, Jeffrey Deitch, Jess Hannah, Jeaux de Peau by Purienne, Justin Reed, Keiko Moriuchi, Laura Sattin, Leyla Fisher, Lily Clark, Marcin Rusak, Marquel Williams, Marta, Max Lamb, Memphis, Meritalia, Michelle Jane Lee, niceworkshop, Nick Thomm, Nike, NM3, NO GA, Paulin Paulin Paulin, Period Correct, Puck, Raiffe Glass, Roham Shamekh, Sabine Marcelis, Sam Klemick, Same Old/BASA Vintage, Sasha December, Spaceless Gallery, Stephanie Ketty, Stickymonger, Studio Ker, The Future Perfect, The Pink Lemonade, Tokio., Tristan Marsh, Tsu Lange Yor, USM, Verre d'Onge, Wexler Gallery, Willo Perron, Yung Jake & more to be announced soon. Episode Highlights: Jesse Lee’s Journey from Intern to Industry Leader – How his relentless curiosity and willingness to do any job led to his success in music, fashion, and design. The Birth of Basic.Space – Why Jesse created Basic.Space as a curated platform for creatives, and how it evolved into an ecosystem connecting sellers, collectors, and brands. The Acquisition of Design Miami – The strategic move behind Basic.Space acquiring Design Miami, and how the two entities complement each other. The Concept Behind Design.Space – How Jesse is bridging digital and physical retail by creating a hybrid shopping experience that blends the best of Basic.Space and Design Miami. The Shift from Fashion to Design – Why luxury consumers are now more interested in furniture, objects, and design than traditional status-driven fashion. The Strategy Behind Invitation-Only Shopping – Why Basic.Space is moving to a membership-based model and limiting access to its most engaged customers. Curation as the Key to Modern Luxury – How brands and platforms must focus on thoughtful selection rather than mass availability to stay relevant. The Role of Physical Events in a Digital World – Why Jesse believes creating real-world moments is critical, and how Design.Space will redefine the shopping experience. The Importance of Intersectionality in Business – Jesse’s belief that success comes from mastering multiple industries—fashion, music, technology, art, and design—rather than specializing in just one. Why Push Marketing Is Over – Jesse’s philosophy that the best brands don’t chase customers but create experiences that naturally pull the right people in. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

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  38:06
• Inside Francesca Burns’ Transformative Journey

  We often bring up the idea of humanity on this show, exploring the anthropology of it all with the creative industry as our backdrop. When sitting down to speak with the absolutely lovely Francesca Burns about her journey - and all of the people, places, and things that have shaped it - we have the opportunity to go beyond the obvious and touch on the human interest of it all. From her early days with Kylie Minogue, the prolific career she's enjoyed working across titles and brands like i-D, British Vogue, Italian Vogue, Self Service, Beyond Noise, Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Nensi Dojaka and her own magazine, PRINT, Burns takes us on an even more holistic journey in this conversation as we move past the obvious benchmarks and begin to explore possibility through the unlimited power source that is inspiration. "You can't bend and shape yourself to meet other people's expectations. It's absolutely impossible. And what each of us has is completely unique to us. How we see the world is completely unique to us. I think there's no limit to what we can do if we're inspired." - Fran Burns Episode Highlights: Fran’s career in fashion first began in music when she assisted the creative director for Kylie Minogue.  Finding her way into the fashion side more officially, Fran started working in PR, where she discovered that styling and magazines were what really lit her up. Prolific stylists such as Joe McKenna, Alex White, and Jonathan Kaye were among those Fran assisted as she came up in the industry. After deciding that the format of most magazines felt ripe for change, Fran, along with her friend and collaborator Christopher Simmonds, decided it was time to start their own project, PRINT. Emphasizing the importance of viewing the necessary changes around sustainability as an evolution rather than a revolution, Fran reminds us to focus on progress rather than perfection as we all work together to achieve lasting and meaningful change. Deciding to study nutrition, Fran discovered the holistic approach to life as something that went beyond personal routines and lifestyle choices, eventually qualifying as a transformational coach. Refusing to be relegated to any one role, Fran is a stylist, consultant, creative director, publisher, and mentor, viewing this variety of creative outputs as an integral part of who she is. Working with both individuals and brand clients, Fran’s coaching has provided her with a way to bridge the gap between where we are and where we want to go, helping people realize they have the capacity to take the necessary steps toward achieving their goals. Fran points out that it’s impossible to shape and bend ourselves to the expectations of others, suggesting instead that we should lean into whatever lights us up, even if it’s outside of the industry we’ve chosen. If it’s feeding us, it’s also opening up our point of view even more. Leaving us with a simple yet powerful message, Fran believes that there is no limit to what we can do as long as we are inspired. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

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  29:04
• Fleeting Moments, Timeless Truths: A Talk with Daniel Arnold

  Daniel Arnold's work can be seen anywhere one consumes visual content, whether it's on the walls of a gallery, the cover of a magazine, or his own well-engaged Instagram feed. But beyond the humanity captured through his lens—with all its bells and whistles of what makes the individual an interesting subject—is the humanity of Daniel himself and the speed with which he can disarm you with his contagious brand of honesty. Speaking to generally relevant subjects as much as his more personal anecdotes, with the same level of fluency that somehow always sounds informed yet ever questioning, the trending power of relatability is alive and well in this episode. Pointing out that we are all well-trained to be entertained while living in this culture of distraction, the former writer-turned-photographer and director believes that anyone can tune into the frequency of viewing life as a source of entertainment rather than as something to validate us or prove our value. More than anything, in an era brimming with more questions than answers, Arnold leaves us with a multitude of soundbites to ponder long after the episode ends. "Letting go of any kind of visualized destination, any kind of idea of what was—what was the right way to do things—and just being kind of fluid and, you know, brave in a way that didn’t come naturally to me. But it sort of enforced this new counter-nature, where I had to survive. So I did." - Daniel Arnold  Episode Highlights: As the oldest of six kids, Daniel Arnold understood by the age of 11 or 12 that he would need to create his own world, entertaining himself while concealing his struggles and ambitions. He chose to only share fully formed ideas, appearing effortless and free from struggle. At just 23, the Milwaukee native arrived in New York City where he found a job writing for Viacom. Having grown up in a big family, he understood the value of fleeting moments captured through photography and found himself as a storyteller and a keeper of life’s precious and hilarious moments. Living off toast while navigating the waves of poverty that almost every young and new artist seems to endure at some point, Daniel's early years as a freelancer were no stranger to the learning opportunities found in struggle. With a growing body of work, the inspirational highs and lows of discovering the next great image that has always fueled him can sometimes prove even more challenging. Recognizing that we've all been trained to seek entertainment in this culture of distraction, Daniel believes we all have the ability to tune into a frequency where we can see life as a source of entertainment, rather than as a means of validation or proof of our own value. Like anyone who has battled imposter syndrome, Daniel says he’s been scared enough times to know to trust the process. A master of metaphor, Daniel compares digital photography to a conversation with success, while film is one with failure, simply because each frame is a risk without any guiding screen or preview. According to Arnold, we've become thirstier for control and perfection than ever before, and as a result, it's imperfection that has become more gorgeous and human than ever. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

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  34:16

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