Behind the Beaker: Victoria Fu on Science, Skincare & Speaking Truth
On this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we’re going deep with Victoria Fu—former L'Oréal chemist and one half of the dynamic duo behind Chemist Confessions. Known for blending scientific rigor with internet-savvy wit, Victoria shares how she and co-founder Gloria Lu built a platform that busts skincare myths, translates chemistry into everyday language, and formulates products that actually deliver.From navigating the hype cycles of “clean beauty” to defending misunderstood ingredients and simplifying tough concepts for TikTok, we explore what it takes to be both a science educator and a brand founder in today’s beauty landscape. Plus, we unpack their approach to product development, testing on a startup budget, and what they wish the industry would finally get right.Key Takeaways:• Science & Education Go Hand-in-Hand: Chemist Confessions began as an educational platform before it became a brand, prioritizing consumer knowledge over hype.• DIY Sunscreen Is Dangerous: Victoria warns against this persistent skincare myth—some risks aren’t worth the experiment.• The Myth of “Oil-Free”: This label causes more confusion than clarity; not all oils are bad, especially for oily skin types.• Real Testing Matters: The brand invests in meaningful clinical testing, even simulating real-life retinol onboarding to reflect how consumers use products.• Innovation ≠ More SKUs: With only nine full products, they demonstrate how thoughtful formulation and consumer testing can reduce bloat.• Education That Evolves: From hand-drawn posts to TikTok strategy, Victoria reflects on how the brand’s voice matured while remaining rooted in integrity.• Formulators Are Consumers Too: Victoria and her co-founder Gloria approach product creation from three angles: chemist, user, and brand owner—balancing innovation, practicality, and joy.If you’ve ever wondered how real chemists think about skincare, this episode is for you. Tune in for smart takes, honest reflections, and a few laughs along the way.
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57:53
Cracking the Chemistry Code: Molecular Literacy with Colleen Kelley
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson speaks with retired chemistry professor and visionary educator Dr. Colleen Kelley, creator of Kids Chemical Solutions. Colleen shares how her comic books and playful curriculum are transforming how children—and adults—learn chemistry by treating it as a language. From teaching molecular literacy as early as age eight to shaping more informed consumers, Colleen makes the case that chemistry fluency is not only possible at a young age but essential for our future. This episode is a must-listen for educators, parents, and anyone passionate about science education, storytelling, or innovation in cosmetics and beyond.Takeaways:• Chemistry = Language: Molecular literacy is the ability to "read" chemistry like a language—complete with symbols, grammar, and fluency.• Early Exposure Matters: Kids as young as eight can grasp core chemical concepts like bonding, equations, and polyatomic ions.• Beyond the Lab Coat: Real science isn't all explosions and goggles—it's data, interpretation, storytelling, and literacy.• Hands-On ≠ Learning: Doing an experiment isn’t enough—students need to be able to analyze and tell the story behind the data.• Visuals & Humor Work: Comic book storytelling helps break down intimidating scientific concepts into digestible, memorable lessons.• Chemistry in Everyday Life: Understanding basic chemistry enables consumers to decode cosmetic labels, environmental terms like “carbon footprint,” and nutritional marketing with confidence.• Equity Through Literacy: Making chemistry accessible through comics and inclusive character design can bridge educational and socioeconomic gaps.
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55:20
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55:20
Beyond Breakouts: The Future of Acne and Aging with CLEARSTEM' with Mercedes Amans
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Mercedes Amans, Head of Product at ClearSTEM, to explore the evolving science and strategy behind formulating products that are both acne-safe and anti-aging. Mercedes shares how ClearSTEM challenges outdated definitions of comedogenicity, leverages data from real consumers, and uses biotech innovation to fill a major gap in skincare. From ingredient myth-busting to the limitations of current testing methods, this episode is a masterclass for anyone working at the intersection of skin sensitivity, science, and beauty.Takeaways:• Acne + Aging Can Coexist: ClearSTEM is disrupting the belief that anti-aging products must sacrifice acne safety—and vice versa.• Not All “Clean” is Acne-Safe: Many natural or clean-labeled ingredients (like coconut oil or algae extracts) are actually highly comedogenic.• Testing Matters: ClearSTEM prioritizes follicular biopsy testing and sensitive-skin clinical trials to ensure safety and efficacy for acne-prone consumers.• Surfacing Safe Surfactants: With improved technologies like glycolipids and phospholipids, it’s now possible to build effective non-irritating formulas without traditional PEGs or polysorbates.• Cleansing is Key: A good cleanser twice a day is foundational—especially in today’s pollution-heavy, sunscreen-drenched environment.• Biotech = The Future: Biotech ingredients offer clean, sustainable, high-performance options—but consumer education still lags behind.• Label Confusion: Terms like “non-comedogenic” or “natural” are often meaningless without standardized testing and transparency.
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54:57
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54:57
From Micro-Trends to Market Domination: The AI-Powdered Future of Beauty with Marta Ponzone
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with beauty trend strategist Marta Ponzone, founder of Terra Innovation Studio. Marta unpacks the power of micro trends and how they differ from fleeting fads. She shares how brands—big and small—can detect, validate, and act on emerging signals to stay ahead in a saturated market. They dive deep into the evolving role of AI, the influence of Asian beauty formats, and how brands can balance innovation with brand integrity. If you’re in product development, marketing, or just love decoding beauty industry shifts, this is a must-listen.Takeaways:• Micro Trends ≠ TikTok Trends: True micro trends emerge from niche communities and early consumer behavior—not social media aesthetics.• AI is a Tool, Not the Answer: AI can help spot emerging themes at scale but lacks the human nuance needed for formulation feasibility, sensorial experience, and brand fit.• From Indie to Mainstream: Many trends start in indie brands or pro communities before hitting the mass market—like tubing mascaras and skin barrier repair.• Localized Insights Matter: While trends are increasingly global, local cultural nuances still affect adoption and success.• Emerging Opportunities: Cushion foundations for diverse skin tones, biotech-based skincare actives, and texture-forward formulas are areas of white space.• Consumer Closeness Wins: Innovation isn't just about new tools—it’s about deep listening, asking the right questions, and creating in collaboration with your community.
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59:54
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59:54
Science of Spin? Decoding Cosmetic Claims with the Experts: Guests Abhishek Panchal, Dwight Tshudy, Constancio Gonzalez Obeso, and Zach Lipsky
n this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson brings together a panel of experts in cosmetic science to explore the fine line between truth and fluff in beauty product claims. From “deep nourishment” to “gene activation,” the group dissects real marketing statements, evaluating whether they’re scientifically supported or simply slick branding. With sharp insights, playful banter, and regulatory know-how, this episode uncovers what really goes into making a claim and what consumers should look out for.Key Takeaways:• Science-based claims require measurable, testable data, not just ingredient potential or in vitro results.• Marketing often leans on vague language like “appearance,” “rebuild,” or “deep nourishment,” which lacks regulatory clarity.• Ingredient claims ≠ product claims — testing must be done in the final formula, not just on hero ingredients.• Terms like ‘gene activation’ or ‘repairs DNA’ can trigger legal scrutiny and even FDA or FTC action.• Transparency wins — brands that provide clear data and avoid misleading visuals gain consumer trust.
The Demystifying Cosmetics podcast, hosted by industry veteran and beauty enthusiast Jennifer Cookson, creates a space for open and insightful conversations about the ever-evolving cosmetics world. At Tagra, we connect chemists, formulators, product developers, and marketers to discuss the latest trends, innovations, and strategies shaping the future of beauty. Join us as we break down technical barriers and uncover the stories and insights driving the next generation of cosmetics.
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