Skinminimalism: Doing More With Less in Modern Beauty
In this episode, we're exploring the rising trend of skinminimalism: the art and science of streamlining your skincare without sacrificing performance. To help break it down, we're joined by Mark Broussard, founder of Desert in Bloom Lab—a formulation and manufacturing expert who's built a career helping brands create high-performing, science-forward products with purpose.Together, we explore:What skinminimalism really means for consumers and brandsThe difference between functional ingredients and "label decoration"Why multi-functional actives and purified plant extracts are keyHow minimalist routines are reshaping product portfoliosAnd what it takes to approach formulation with a "less is more" mindsetKey Takeaways:• Skin Minimalism = Smarter Skincare: It's about fewer ingredients, fewer products, and fewer steps—without sacrificing performance.• The 1% Line Trick: Learning to read ingredient lists helps spot label decoration and identify what's actually doing the work.• Functional vs. Fluff: Functional ingredients like niacinamide and retinol alternatives should be used at optimal concentrations—not just for marketing.• Keep It Simple: A basic, effective routine includes a cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF. That’s it for most skin types.• Layering Caution: Using too many products from different brands can lead to sensitivity and ingredient conflicts.• Product Portfolios Need Streamlining: Brands should evaluate performance and cut portfolio bloat before launching more products.• Formulators Need Restraint: Focus on gold-standard ingredients and avoid ingredient overload.• Less Can Be More Effective: Overuse of actives (e.g. 12% niacinamide) may cause irritation or harm skin instead of helping it.
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38:31
LCA Isn't the Whole Story: Rethinking Sustainability in Beauty With Evan Peters
From "low-impact formulas" to "carbon-neutral packaging," beauty brands love a sustainability claim—but what are those claims really based on?In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we sit down with Evan Peters, founder of Fairglo, to unpack the promise and pitfalls of Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) in the cosmetics industry. We go beyond the buzzwords to explore how system boundaries, data gaps, and marketing spin can shape—and sometimes distort—what LCAs actually reveal about a product's environmental footprint.Evan shares his insights on cradle-to-gate vs. cradle-to-grave approaches, why end-of-life impacts are often left out, and how LCAs can be used to legitimize greenwashing when taken out of context. We also zoom out to consider what LCAs miss entirely—like biodiversity loss, microplastic pollution, and social equity—and why a more holistic toolkit is needed to evaluate sustainability in beauty and personal care.Takeaways:LCAs Are Only as Good as Their Boundaries: Deciding how far back (and forward) to track product impact is crucial—and highly variable.Cradle-to-Gate vs. Cradle-to-Grave: Many brands stop tracking environmental impact once the product leaves the factory, missing key downstream data.Fairglow’s Value Proposition: The platform democratizes LCAs by reducing cost, increasing transparency, and enabling quick scenario testing.Green Claims Need Rigor: Publishing LCA data should include third-party verification, especially for comparative or marketing claims.What LCAs Miss: Emerging sustainability issues—like biodiversity, microplastics, and forced labor—are often outside LCA scope.Natural ≠ Sustainable: Synthetic ingredients can often have lower carbon footprints than “natural” ones like rose oil.Data Is Power—If Organized: Brands must digitize operations to track formulations, packaging, and logistics to get an accurate environmental picture.If you work in product development, sustainability, or just want to understand what’s behind the claims, this 30-minute episode will give you the clarity (and caution) you need to read between the carbon lines.
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33:33
Behind the Beaker: Victoria Fu on Science, Skincare & Speaking Truth
On this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we’re going deep with Victoria Fu—former L'Oréal chemist and one half of the dynamic duo behind Chemist Confessions. Known for blending scientific rigor with internet-savvy wit, Victoria shares how she and co-founder Gloria Lu built a platform that busts skincare myths, translates chemistry into everyday language, and formulates products that actually deliver.From navigating the hype cycles of “clean beauty” to defending misunderstood ingredients and simplifying tough concepts for TikTok, we explore what it takes to be both a science educator and a brand founder in today’s beauty landscape. Plus, we unpack their approach to product development, testing on a startup budget, and what they wish the industry would finally get right.Key Takeaways:• Science & Education Go Hand-in-Hand: Chemist Confessions began as an educational platform before it became a brand, prioritizing consumer knowledge over hype.• DIY Sunscreen Is Dangerous: Victoria warns against this persistent skincare myth—some risks aren’t worth the experiment.• The Myth of “Oil-Free”: This label causes more confusion than clarity; not all oils are bad, especially for oily skin types.• Real Testing Matters: The brand invests in meaningful clinical testing, even simulating real-life retinol onboarding to reflect how consumers use products.• Innovation ≠ More SKUs: With only nine full products, they demonstrate how thoughtful formulation and consumer testing can reduce bloat.• Education That Evolves: From hand-drawn posts to TikTok strategy, Victoria reflects on how the brand’s voice matured while remaining rooted in integrity.• Formulators Are Consumers Too: Victoria and her co-founder Gloria approach product creation from three angles: chemist, user, and brand owner—balancing innovation, practicality, and joy.If you’ve ever wondered how real chemists think about skincare, this episode is for you. Tune in for smart takes, honest reflections, and a few laughs along the way.
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57:53
Cracking the Chemistry Code: Molecular Literacy with Colleen Kelley
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson speaks with retired chemistry professor and visionary educator Dr. Colleen Kelley, creator of Kids Chemical Solutions. Colleen shares how her comic books and playful curriculum are transforming how children—and adults—learn chemistry by treating it as a language. From teaching molecular literacy as early as age eight to shaping more informed consumers, Colleen makes the case that chemistry fluency is not only possible at a young age but essential for our future. This episode is a must-listen for educators, parents, and anyone passionate about science education, storytelling, or innovation in cosmetics and beyond.Takeaways:• Chemistry = Language: Molecular literacy is the ability to "read" chemistry like a language—complete with symbols, grammar, and fluency.• Early Exposure Matters: Kids as young as eight can grasp core chemical concepts like bonding, equations, and polyatomic ions.• Beyond the Lab Coat: Real science isn't all explosions and goggles—it's data, interpretation, storytelling, and literacy.• Hands-On ≠ Learning: Doing an experiment isn’t enough—students need to be able to analyze and tell the story behind the data.• Visuals & Humor Work: Comic book storytelling helps break down intimidating scientific concepts into digestible, memorable lessons.• Chemistry in Everyday Life: Understanding basic chemistry enables consumers to decode cosmetic labels, environmental terms like “carbon footprint,” and nutritional marketing with confidence.• Equity Through Literacy: Making chemistry accessible through comics and inclusive character design can bridge educational and socioeconomic gaps.
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55:20
Beyond Breakouts: The Future of Acne and Aging with CLEARSTEM' with Mercedes Amans
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Mercedes Amans, Head of Product at ClearSTEM, to explore the evolving science and strategy behind formulating products that are both acne-safe and anti-aging. Mercedes shares how ClearSTEM challenges outdated definitions of comedogenicity, leverages data from real consumers, and uses biotech innovation to fill a major gap in skincare. From ingredient myth-busting to the limitations of current testing methods, this episode is a masterclass for anyone working at the intersection of skin sensitivity, science, and beauty.Takeaways:• Acne + Aging Can Coexist: ClearSTEM is disrupting the belief that anti-aging products must sacrifice acne safety—and vice versa.• Not All “Clean” is Acne-Safe: Many natural or clean-labeled ingredients (like coconut oil or algae extracts) are actually highly comedogenic.• Testing Matters: ClearSTEM prioritizes follicular biopsy testing and sensitive-skin clinical trials to ensure safety and efficacy for acne-prone consumers.• Surfacing Safe Surfactants: With improved technologies like glycolipids and phospholipids, it’s now possible to build effective non-irritating formulas without traditional PEGs or polysorbates.• Cleansing is Key: A good cleanser twice a day is foundational—especially in today’s pollution-heavy, sunscreen-drenched environment.• Biotech = The Future: Biotech ingredients offer clean, sustainable, high-performance options—but consumer education still lags behind.• Label Confusion: Terms like “non-comedogenic” or “natural” are often meaningless without standardized testing and transparency.
The Demystifying Cosmetics podcast, hosted by industry veteran and beauty enthusiast Jennifer Cookson, creates a space for open and insightful conversations about the ever-evolving cosmetics world. At Tagra, we connect chemists, formulators, product developers, and marketers to discuss the latest trends, innovations, and strategies shaping the future of beauty. Join us as we break down technical barriers and uncover the stories and insights driving the next generation of cosmetics.
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