The SJX Podcast

On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX returns from London and Milan with impressions of two very different demonstrations of watchmaking’s biggest names at work. Rolex’s “Four Seasons” Daytona auction broke the record for the biggest charity watch auction in history, raising nearly US$50 million, but a longer run-up could arguably have pushed the result even higher.

In Milan, Patek Philippe unveiled the ref. 5978P, pairing an instantaneous perpetual calendar with its manually wound chronograph. The exhibition’s Rare Handcrafts and Italian-market limited editions also offer plenty to debate, from remarkable pocket watches to a Ferrari-red minute repeater.

Finally, we discuss highlights from Marteau & Co’s fourth online auction, which runs from October 8-15th.

Show notes:
00:40: Rolex’s “Four Seasons” auction: bidding momentum, logistics, and a record charity result
08:00: Patek Philippe’s Milan exhibition and the instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 5978P
13:30: Rare Handcrafts favourites: Venice in wood marquetry and Dante in enamel
16:20: Milan limited editions: day-and-night World Time Minute Repeaters, colourful Calatravas, and a new Aquanaut
19:40: Marteau auction highlights: independent watchmaking across the price spectrum, including unique pieces by Yosuke Sekiguchi and Sylvain Pinaud
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From the Five Time Zone to the Astronomia and Bugatti, Jacob & Co. has evolved considerably over the past 20 years. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX speaks with Benjamin Arabov about the family-owned brand’s transformation and the mechanical ingenuity sometimes obscured by its celebrity clientele and gem-set watches.

The conversation explores how ideas become watches, why smaller cases have opened the door to new collectors, and what makes partnerships with Bugatti and The Godfather work.

We also discuss the origins of the brand’s celebrity following, the continued importance of retail partners, and Benjamin’s approach to building a business that can outlast its founder while preserving his creative ambition.

Show notes:

00:20: Family ownership and the evolution of Jacob & Co.
02:44: Finding a niche in unusual complications
04:20: Product development and the push for smaller watches
07:15: The evolution of the client base
08:20: Partnerships (Bugatti, Godfather, etc.)
12:07: The Five Time Zone and the origins of the celebrity following
15:03: The next generation, long-term direction, and retail partnerships
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With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority.

Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches.

We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker quietly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing.

Show notes:

02:30: Michel's journey into watchmaking
06:36: Managing succession of a founder-led brand
11:30: The decision to reject expanding the business beyond ~200 pieces/year
14:00: The development of the Qualité Musée standard
16:25: The role of R&D and technical innovation at Greubel Forsey
22:45: Adapting the house style of architectural watchmaking to smaller watches
23:45: The Hand Made series, preserving traditional skills, and balancing production
30:00: In-house hairspring production
32:10: Handling bespoke and custom orders responsibly
34:40: Longevity and lessons from two decades of independent watchmaking
38:40: The future of ultra high-end watch market and the importance of intrinsic value
40:35: Recognition and awards in the watch industry
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Geneva Watch Days just concluded, and by most measures it was the biggest ever. Brands exhibiting topped 70 while visitors were at a record high. The event attracted “an even larger contingent of content creators” according to GWD’s organisers, underscoring the growing fashionability of watches on social media.

In total, some 400 watches were debuted at the event - but were they any good?
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Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe.

The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands in terms of finishing and execution.

Show notes:

00:30: Universal People Universal Dreams by Luca Mignini
03:47: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT
10:10: Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5227G
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