The SJX Podcast

In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon and SJX examine the Swiss watch industry's June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop.

The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand's patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement.

Show notes:

00:35: Analysis of June data for Swiss watch exports
05:20: Rolex inclined-plane clock
09:30: Rolex Submariner Desk Clock
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The unprecedented collaboration between Swatch and Audemars Piguet that resulted in the Royal Pop dominated the product's first news cycle, but market enthusiasm seems to have cooled off, with anecdotal evidence supported by broader search trends.

On Episode 45 of the SJX Podcast, we look back at the launch, and discuss what future collaborators might do differently to avoid the same fate.

We also look at the opposite end of the market, which in some ways is only gaining momentum, with a number of multi-million-dollar results in the spring auctions.

Show notes:

00:30: Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop
02:30: Google search volume
05:25: F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription result at Phillips
10:10: F.P. Journe 'Swiss Fine Timing' edition results
13:41: Christie's highlights, including Patek Philippe ref. 3448G 'Red Dot' and ref. 5959R

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Episode 44 of the SJX Podcast covers new releases from Grand Seiko, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. The common thread that ties these releases together is that each is an incremental update to a previous model. Grand Seiko's updates to the Evolution 9 collection are perhaps most notable simply due to the brand's larger scale, and for what this refresh indicates about how the brand is listening to collector feedback.

We also shares our condolences with the Stern family over the passing of Philippe Stern, and discuss his towering legacy.

Show notes:

00:30: Philippe Stern's legacy
06:00: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 refresh (new bracelets and UFA movements)
09:30: Greubel Forsey Balancier QM
12:50: Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
15:00: Breguet Tourbillon 225th Anniversary
16:00: Chanel Chessboard
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This weekend, the United States marks its 250th Independence Day — it's the perfect opportunity to reflect on recent American contributions to the field of horology.

On episode 43 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the latest entry in this field — the Liberty 250 from 1776 Atelier — and break down the claim that 90% of its components are manufactured in the US. The conversation also discusses RGM and J.N. Shapiro — brands that have contributed substantially to contemporary American watchmaking.

Finally, to look into the future we go back to school by visiting the Watch Technology Institute in Seattle — the last remaining full-time public watchmaking programme in the US capable of granting a major certification.
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Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex — a leading white label maker of Swiss watches — he needs to be. For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Mr Biard at the company's secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes.

The discussion covers the emergence of the 'micro-brand' (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company.
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