That's Not Real Climbing

"She goes by Oce" is a boulder and lead climber from Australia! She's had an amazing 2024 season with her first world cup boulder medal in Prague, and also recently competed in her 2nd Olympics. In this episode, we'll learn about how she battled THREE health issues while competing in the Paris olympics, how Paris compared to Tokyo, her training with team Switzerland and making lead climbing gains, and her (thankfully far in the future) plans for retirement.Guest links:InstagramTiktokReference links:Anime RecommendationK-drama RecommendationThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:19 - MadRock Shoutout!!2:06 - Post-season break4:09 - Being away from home for 6 months/Switzerland coaching9:18 - Starting out climbing with the family12:24 - Birth order stereotypes15:16 - Shingles in Paris19:23 - Meeting other Olympians but not Raygun21:13 - How Olympic finals felt compared to qualis27:06 - Comparing Paris to Tokyo Olympics36:12 - Being emotional on camera38:44 - Top athletes being gone from 2024 WC season40:17 - Making lead climbing gains45:18 - Winning her first WC medal51:24 - Competition schedule preference54:59 - Brisbane Olympics and future retirement plans57:52 - Discord Q: how do you navigate a vegan diet while traveling for comps59:09- Weeb/koreaboo?1:03:01 - Discord Q: Could you imagine doing a Swiss bouldering comp next year?1:04:47 - Discord Q: Do you have any interesting experiences in Japan?1:06:30 - Discord Q: Are Australian gyms too focused on commercial climbing?1:09:49 - Traveling with her sister1:11:53 - Where to find Oce

Tom is team GB’s ex-head coach! He personally coached Shauna Coxsey into getting her Tokyo Olympic ticket and has worked with the rest of team GB up until he left the national team earlier this year in April. In this episode, we'll learn about why he’s banned from the USA, the strategy for getting Shauna to qualify for the Olympics, and the politics and public backlash he faced working in the circuit that led to his eventual resignation.There is an EXTRA FULL-LENGTH EPISODE available with Tom on Patreon available to members only: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramEmailReference links:Wedge ClimbingJanja Unfiltered Period TalkLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/Recovering from knee surgery5:49 - Starting climbing + competing + coaching10:20 - How he got BANNED from the USA13:18 - How to get into coaching now18:57 - Thoughts on Instagram coaching + current training philosophies25:50 - Coaching Shauna Coxsey into the Olympics34:15 - Why Team GB found such great form in 202437:12 - What makes Toby and Erin stand out from the rest39:12 - Difference between coaching individually vs acting as head coach40:56 - How GB training camps work44:30 - Athlete consistency during comps + period cycles53:45 - Why he quit as head coach of GB1:01:32 - Dealing with a toxic climbing community1:08:38 - The most difficult parts of coaching1:10:56 - Favorite/least favorite travel moments on the circuit1:14:59 - Recommendation to other coaches on stress management1:17:25 - The future of comp climbing + athlete money1:22:45 - "Coaching people to their own individual Olympics"1:26:45 - Tom's future1:28:22 - Discord Q: Does cohesion in a national team make a difference?1:30:48 - Discord Q: Did individual coaching ever interfere with your work as national team coach?1:32:54 - Final thoughts + where to find Tom

Sofya is a boulderer on team Switzerland and she’s part of the wave of OG climbing Youtubers! In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague, we get some insight into team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues, and she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame it.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramYoutubeReference links:Weight Vest VideoTraining AppLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Reflections on Prague WC6:05 - Climbing + Competing start7:58 - Worldwide childhood and origins of her accent10:52 - Boulderer getting into lead training?15:40 - The "no expectations" comp trick19:55 - Slab is the enemy22:10 - Being a short climber26:08 - Training schedule30:03 - Team Switzerland transformation31:42 - Swiss athlete funding35:23 - Money and YouTube41:41 - Behind the scenes of Youtube43:31 - Climbing with a weight vest controversy?48:19 - Climbing, puberty, and eating disorders54:47 - Bulking & cutting?1:04:04 - The pro comp climbing dating scene1:08:47 - Training with Nicolai1:10:48 - Favorite hobby is...escape rooms?!1:12:54 - Future goals & being born in the 1900s1:18:55 - Shoutout from Tom Greenall1:19:27 - Discord statement: calling Sofya by the wrong name1:19:51 - Discord Q: Who's your favorite YouTuber?1:23:35 - Where to find Sofya

Another double-guest episode! Stanley is an IFSC event delegate and judge chair, while Zul is officially a newly minted IFSC judge. In this episode, we’ll talk about how to become an IFSC judge, hear about their relationships and interactions with athletes and coaches, and we’ll hear some crazy stories about their judging experiences under pressure and cancelling events due to rain like in Keqiao.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:Stanley’s InstagramZul’s InstagramReference links:Appeal against Sorato during Boulder Finals at SLC 2023Appeal FormStickman (Implied beta) on M1 Boulder Finals at SLC 2023Bee incident during Speed Finals at SLC 2023Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Getting back from Paris Olympics7:31 - Their IFSC Roles12:35 - Why become an IFSC judge?20:34 - How to become an IFSC judge23:46 - The pressure of judging at the IFSC level26:51 - Being taken advantage of by coaches31:09 - Messing up an appeal in Salt Lake City38:44 - Things route setters do that judges HATE49:19 - The appeals process53:55 - Judge relationship with coaches1:01:27 - Giving athletes yellow cards1:14:06 - Fixing the weather1:17:28 - Performing a skit at the World Cup opening ceremony1:20:59 - Why is the rain issue never fixed?1:26:58 - Belayer protest walk-out & other crazy stories1:35:56 - Things to be improved in the IFSC1:42:25 - Discord Q: How different are WCs based on who's organizing them1:52:11 - Discord Q: Should corporations host world cups instead of national federations? 1:54:20 - Final thoughts, where to find Stanley & Zul