Ep47: Sagi Damti - German Coach DEBUNKS Olympics Rumors
Sagi has been the German team’s bouldering coach since 2022! In this episode, we’ll get insight into Team Germany’s training and challenges, hear why he thinks the losses hurt the coaches more than the competitors, we’ll get a story about his experience as a homeless person while in the US, and most importantly, we’ll DEBUNK his famous statement in the Magnus video that Olympic qualifiers will still be in the combined format for 2028!Guest links:Sagi’s InstagramReference links:IFSC Format Experiment Upcoming CompThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:40 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:24 - Youth worlds + Spain travels4:59 - Climbing + coaching with no experience!12:02 - Becoming the German bouldering coach19:42 - Do pros still need climbing tips??22:41 - Team Germany's training breakdown + reaction time practice28:19 - Comforting athletes who have a bad round37:58 - DEBUNKING LA 2028 qualification process44:07 - The issue with bouldering points system47:32 - HOT TAKE: Bouldering is no longer real climbing54:53 - New generation of climbing1:02:55 - German team challenges1:09:42 - Price of hosting world cups1:11:13 - Bouldering needs to change1:18:50 - USA travel nightmare1:28:03 - IG Q: Athletes in Germany that hate the DAV?1:32:11 - DISCORD Q: Talk through the process of an appeal1:38:58 - DISCORD Q: What do you do in ISO?1:40:55 - Words of wisdom + where to find Sagi
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Ep 46: Miguel Zevallos - FIX Your Comp Climbing INJURIES
Miguel is a climbing physical therapist who works closely with the Method youth climbing team in the US and recently worked his first youth nationals! In this episode, we’ll learn about the danger of growth plate injuries in youth climbing athletes, we’ll get a glimpse into youth ISO, we’ll rank 3 of the most dangerous comp moves we’ve seen so far, and we’ll hear about his own journey trying to make the Peruvian national team!Guest links:Miguel’s InstagramMiguel’s websiteReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:03 - Getting into PT and climbing4:09 - OTs vs PTs and insurance battles7:26 - Working with youth comp climbers9:44 - What ISO is like at youth nationals14:38 - Massage guns? And my bro-science musings16:43 - Injuries in kids vs adults19:37 - The big one: growth plate injuries in kids25:01 - When to rest vs train through an injury27:34 - General recommendations for climbing injuries32:45 - S+C to prevent ankle, shoulder injuries35:26 - Ranking 3 dangerous comp moves42:27 - When NOT to tape47:28 - What injuries do vs don't require time off the wall52:53 - Chronic injuries? Maybe you're climbing wrong...59:33 - Training for Peruvian nationals1:06:37 - DISCORD Q: What advice would you give to PT students looking to work with climbers?1:08:46 - DISCORD Q: What are the pillars of a strong climbing warmup?1:12:27 - DISCORD Q: top 2 exercises for injury prevention1:17:29 - Words of wisdom and where to find Miguel
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Ep 45: Pete Woods - The Sad FINANCIALS of Climbing
Pete is a commentator and MC who has commentated for several world cups and North American elite competitions. In this episode, we’ll learn about the art of MCing, times he’s gotten flamed online as a commentator, and we get a lot of insight into the financials of broadcast and climbing as a sport, including the best argument I’ve heard yet for why Eurosport is a good deal. It’s clear to me in this episode that Pete is a huge proponent of growing the climbing community and his passion really shines through!Guest links:Pete’s InstagramPete’s websiteReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:13 - Climbing in 1 World Cup8:15 - Deciding not to be a dirtbag climber11:13 - The art of MCing15:13 - Is MCing or commentary more fun?18:58 - The price of broadcasting21:06 - Getting yelled at for commentary27:03 - SLC world cup v6 boulders37:41 - How to trick top climbers with holds39:43 - The value of non-IFSC comps46:26 - Cost of putting together Dockmasters51:41 - Punk Rock Masters' crazy $50k cash purse59:52 - Are climbers cheapskates?!1:11:37 - IG Q: Are dynamic moves a good way to make climbing more mainstream?1:16:26 - IG Q: What do you want to be remembered for?1:17:51 - IG Q: What's your current relationship with CEC?1:24:49 - IG Q: What's your golf handicap?1:29:01 - Climbers need to be promoting climbers!1:34:55 - Closing thoughts + where to find Pete
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Ep 44: Nekaia + Sovarae Sanders - Comp Climbing SISTERHOOD
You probably recognize Nekaia from when she recently made her first boulder world cup finals in Curitiba and her sister Sovarae podiumed at her last USA youth boulder nationals. In this episode, we get a lot of insight into their sibling dynamic as comp climbers, we’ll hear about Nekaia’s experience in Curitiba and Sovarae’s experience going through mental battles at comps, and we’ll have some fun conversation about food and Harry Potter.Guest links:Nekaia’s InstagramSovarae’s InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:35 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:18 - Nekaia's new haircut!6:59 - Are they related to Annie Sanders?!7:42 - How the family got into climbing11:05 - Homeschool kids13:52 - Sovarae used to get dragged to the climbing gym21:11 - Jealously and competitiveness amongst each other30:45 - How USA team selection works33:49 - Nekaia's breakout performance in Curitiba41:25 - Nekaia's slab strength and strength weakness43:39 - Sovarae's finger strength and mental weakness49:32 - Nekaia's mental advice51:57 - World Cup traveling and eating abroad56:32 - HOT TAKE: Losing is more important than winning59:53 - HOT TAKE: People who say they don't like comp style climbing need to be shown how!1:04:12 - Swimming and Harry Potter1:10:53 - DISCORD Q: How early to start wearing in a comp shoe?1:13:30 - IG Q: Favorite style of climb?1:16:28 - IG Q: Outdoor rock projects?1:18:09 - IG Q: What effect does fan interaction have on your morale?1:22:36 - IG Q: How do the finances work?1:25:28 - IG Q: Does Sovarae always get the middle seat?1:28:39 - Closing thoughts + where to find Nekaia and Sovarae
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Ep 43: Carl McNeice - Erin McNeice's BRUTAL HONESTY Approach to Training
If it’s not obvious, Carl is Erin McNeice’s dad and I’m so thrilled to get a parent perspective on the podcast. In this episode, we’ll learn about the family’s dedication and honest approach to building Erin’s climbing career, how much it cost to support the training and travel of an athlete, why he’s no longer allowed to watch her comps in person, and get adorable dad-anecdotes from the Olympics.Guest links:Carl’s InstagramReference links:Erin’s EpisodeBudapest Olympic Qualifier Stress(Buzzed) Eurosport interviewHorsin Around Quest for 8CThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:19 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:06 - Returning from Innsbruck5:44 - Carl's climbing and gymnastics background10:47 - Getting involved in competition climbing15:57 - When to push vs when to back off22:43 - The cost of being a comp parent28:32 - Sudden rise between the 2023-2024 season33:59 - Erin's intense training schedule38:37 - Phasing out of Erin's training routine42:53 - Not being allowed to watch the comps in person48:06 - The stress of watching your child compete54:38 - Most stressful competition to watch58:35 - The Olympics experience1:06:13 - Thoughts on dangerous setting1:16:55 - DISCORD Q: How does having a comp kid influence the family dynamic?1:20:02 - DISCORD: How to avoid good results = good vibes only1:25:31 - DISCORD Q: Do you approve shots of yourself on Erin's Youtube channel :p1:27:41 - DISCORD Q: How does it feel to be a worse climber than your child?1:30:49 - Words of wisdom
A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.
New Zealand