PodcastsSportsThat's Not Real Climbing

That's Not Real Climbing

Jinni Xia
That's Not Real Climbing
Latest episode

56 episodes

  • That's Not Real Climbing

    Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams

    23/02/2026 | 1h 8 mins.
    Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been climbing for over 22 years and had actually retired from competing…until hearing about the Paralympics. In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like climbing with a stump, whether outdoor, indoor, or comp setting is most friendly to her impairment, we’ll talk about petty drama in the community, and what sport shopping is in the Paralympics.

    Guest links:
    Mo’s Instagram
    Mo’s Website

    Reference links:

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics
    Timestamps of discussion topics
    0:00 - Intro
    1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
    1:59 - Lifting at a bro-y gym
    3:28 - The 'stump' impairment
    7:40 - Getting into climbing and competing
    13:39 - Thoughts on gym setting for her stump
    22:10 - Becoming a real sport means drama
    28:16 - "Training" back then vs real training now
    29:29 - World Cup appearances 2026 and 2027
    30:55 - What we know about Paralympics qualifications
    32:18 - How the Paralympics have changed paraclimbing
    35:49 - Paralympic "Sport shopping"
    38:09 - Heartbreak over which sport classes got chosen for the Paralympics
    42:17 - What her training will look like to qualify at 39 years old
    46:44 - Audience Q: What does the process look like to qualify for Paralympics?
    48:59 - Dealing with comp nerves
    50:49 - Is outdoor climbing more friendly for her stump?
    52:38 - Outdoor projects and first ascents
    58:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite comp memory?
    1:01:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Podium cupcake story?
    1:03:20 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting sponsored by North Face and tips for getting sponsors
    1:06:20 - Words of wisdom and where to find Mo
  • That's Not Real Climbing

    Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??

    02/02/2026 | 1h 14 mins.
    Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of coaches.

    Guest links:
    Rachel’s Instagram
    Rachel’s Youtube

    Reference links:

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics
    Timestamps of discussion topics
    0:00 - Intro
    1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
    2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs
    4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete
    8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance
    13:46 - Becoming a coach
    15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior?
    20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition
    23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches
    31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches?
    34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches!
    40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style
    43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness...
    45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques?
    50:17 - Climbing goals
    53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics?
    56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad?
    58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie amongst athletes?
    1:03:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side of competition?
    1:07:53 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you think new comps like PCL will impact the scene for athletes and coaches?
    1:10:05 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches?
    1:12:47 - Where to find Rachel
  • That's Not Real Climbing

    Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!

    19/01/2026 | 1h 6 mins.
    Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING.

    Guest links:
    Emma’s Instagram

    Reference links:

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics
    Timestamps of discussion topics
    0:00 - Intro
    1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
    2:11 - My annual stretching resolution
    5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?!
    9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing
    11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit
    14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja
    16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior?
    17:02 - Climbing styles
    20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster
    24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out
    27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing?
    29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o
    31:40 - Being a taller climber
    32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms
    38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella
    39:47 - Season expectations?
    42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture?
    46:45 - Outdoor Climbing
    47:55 - Enjoying sedentary activities
    50:29 - Trying to balance training with school
    53:27 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you decide what gyms to train at?
    55:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Making climbing shoes last?
    59:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite boulder from Brussels European cup?
    1:00:35 - AUDIENCE Q: What's the difference between TC and world cups?
    1:02:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Does your brother climb harder than you yet?
    1:04:43 - Words of wisdom and where to find Emma
  • That's Not Real Climbing

    Charlie Boscoe - Founding a BRAND NEW Bouldering Series

    05/01/2026 | 1h 19 mins.
    This is Charlie’s second time on the podcast and he’s back with a big announcement! For those who aren’t familiar, Charlie preceded Matt Groom as the IFSC/World Climbing commentator. This time, he’s back to talk about the brand new competition series, Pro Climbing League. In this episode, we’ll go over all the details of what a PCL competition will look like, the challenges they faced the past 5 years putting this together, and I’m diving into all the finances as well.

    Guest links:
    PCL Website
    PCL Instagram
    Charlie’s Instagram

    Reference links:
    Solo Documentary (Kayaking Story)

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics
    0:00 - Intro
    1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
    2:13 - PCL test event
    3:32 - IFSC/World Climbing Background
    6:17 - What is Pro Climbing League?
    11:18 - Live routesetting during a competition
    15:21 - YOU may be able to compete!
    19:25 - Hardest part of setting up a climbing league
    24:25 - Why PCL was started
    29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: What prompted the head to head format?
    34:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you consult with athletes for this format?
    40:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Challenges broadcasting this comp?
    44:22 - Getting sponsor money for the league
    47:08 - Most expensive part
    53:00 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the prize money look like?
    1:00:07 - I'm addicted to the concept of sports betting
    1:05:08 - What does success look like?
    1:08:51 - AUDIENCE Q: Future schedule and locations?
    1:11:18 - AUDIENCE Q: What aspect of the format excited athletes the most?
    1:14:16 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you use adjustable walls for the comp?
    1:17:07 - Where to find PCL deets!
  • That's Not Real Climbing

    Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi - Fukuoka TEAM Climbing Event TELL-ALL

    01/12/2025 | 1h 10 mins.
    Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present.

    Guest links:
    Declan’s Instagram
    Zoe’s Instagram

    Reference links:
    Fukuoka Competition Playlist
    Yank n yard stream: Highball boulders comp

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics
    0:00 - Intro
    1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
    2:03 - Starting climbing and competing
    4:48 - Strength training BAD?!
    10:18 - Japan traveling
    11:50 - Fukuoka team event selection process
    14:28 - Difficulty of the climbs
    18:37 - Talking to the coach during the comp
    20:59 - Pressure climbing with a coach and teammates
    23:51 - Team competition strategies
    28:08 - 5 rounds in 3 days
    31:06 - First time competing on IFSC livestream
    33:15 - The stress of youth competitions
    35:34 - World Cup climbing is uncomfortable
    40:23 - Lead vs boulder preference
    44:37 - Future climbing + education goals
    49:26 - Now we're just glazing San Diego
    54:41 - Audience Q: Anything you would've wanted to change with the team event?
    58:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Memories/advice from youth training?
    1:02:17 - Being known as the "benchwarmers' benchwarmers"
    1:03:08 - Outdoor goals
    1:05:17 - Beating Elden Ring
    1:06:28 - Relationship advice from 18 year olds!
    1:09:13 - Words of wisdom + where to find Zoe and Declan

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About That's Not Real Climbing

A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.
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