Sew & So...

Today we’re thrilled to welcome back Susan Khalje of Susan Khalje Couture. Susan first joined us on Sew & So in 2023 (Episode 75), where she shared her remarkable journey into couture sewing and her passion for teaching these refined techniques around the world. Since then, her work has continued to evolve—expanding her global reach through online education and immersive experiences abroad. Widely regarded as one of the foremost authorities on couture sewing, Susan trained at the legendary New York salon Chez Cez et Bez, designed on Seventh Avenue, and later built a celebrated custom bridal and eveningwear business before dedicating herself fully to teaching.

A longtime contributing editor to Threads Magazine and author of Bridal Couture: Fine Sewing Techniques for Wedding Gowns and Evening Wear and Linen and Cotton: Classic Sewing Techniques, many also recognize her from Sew Much More, which aired for six years on HGTV and DIY Network. Today, she continues to inspire sewists worldwide through her Couture Sewing School, her online Couture Sewing Club, and her curated educational trips to Paris and London.

(2:40) Susan recaps her journey to couture sewing.

(5:05) what’s Susan been doing since her last visit with us in 2023?

(5:42) Her Couture Sewing Club has taught sewists worldwide. She talks about it’s beginning and how it’s evolved. Also, what’s important to her about this online community?

(7:25) Couture sewing is very tactile. How does she teach this online?

(8:52) What’s her favorite couture technique?(10:36)Susan explains couture sewing

(12:24) Is every garment designed with the owner and event in mind? Hear her very unique point of view!

(12:33) How long does it take to create a couture item?

(14:08) What’s it like for her to experience a student’s first “ A Ha” moment?

(15:16) Why are her curated trips to Paris and London so special? What do the participants learn?

(18:01) What’s her favorite thing to do on these trips?

(19:04) What continues to inspire her?

(20:42) What changes has she seen in the sewing audience since she’s been involved in writing/teaching?

(23:25) What’s next for her and what’s her dream?

(25:05) Is there a question we didn’t ask that she wishes we had asked? Well, get with a group of people who sew!

(26:10) Want to contact Susan? [email protected]

Be sure to subscribe to, review and rate this podcast on your favorite platform…and visit our website sewandsopodcast.com for more information about today’s and all of our Guests.

From a childhood surrounded by fabric and family to leading a team of talented sewists at Disney, Mary Lou Cox has stitched together a remarkable career in the entertainment industry. As Area Manager of the Creative Workroom at Disney, Mary Lou oversees the creation of magical garments and specialty pieces that help bring unforgettable guest experiences to life.

Born in Mexico and raised in California from six months old, Mary Lou grew up in a large family of sewists. Her grandparents owned a store in Tampico, and her mother lovingly made her school clothes. By age 10, Mary Lou was sewing herself. That early foundation launched a 25-year career in entertainment costuming, global factory visits across Asia and the U.S., and teaching fashion design at LA Trade Tech. Passionate about patternmaking, specialty techniques, and mentoring the next generation, Mary Lou continues to blend craftsmanship, creativity, and heart in everything she does.

(1:29) How did Mary Lou learn to sew and who influenced her?

(2:18) Mary Lou recounts her career path and how she ended up working at Disney.

(4:13) She talks about what she and her team of sewists create every day.

(4:52) Mary Lou shares examples of how these creations bring joy to Disney guests.

(6:04) What about the work she does with Dancing With the Stars?

(6:33) How is sewing for entertainment different than everyday sewing?

(8:13) What changes has she seen in the industry in the last 25 years?

(9:25) She shares the story of Kayla and Briar Rose. And making Teddy Bears.

(12:20) She loves to make patterns and teach sewing techniques. She explains why.

(15:44) Mary Lou shares special stories of her many travels.

(19:51) What about the memorable people she’s met? Crab Hearts and elephant orphanages. 

(23:30) What were her very favorite specialty classes? How about quilting, bra making and tutu making?!

(28:35) What does she do in her spare time?

(30:53) What’s next for her and what’s her dream?

(32:48) Is there a question we didn’t ask?

(35:15) Want to reach out to Mary Lou? You can at Instagram @sewingwildflowers

Be sure to subscribe to, review and rate this podcast on your favorite platform…and visit our website sewandsopodcast.com for more information about today’s and all of our Guests.

Our guest today is Melanie Jasmine a costume designer and makeup artist based in Texas.
With more than 10 years of experience in sewing and design, she began her involvement in the cosplay community at age 15. Within the community she hosts panels and crafting sessions, judges cosplay contests and is a brand ambassador. She represents a newer generation of professional cosplayers who combine costume design, performance, makeup artistry, and branded content creation into dynamic character work. In addition to sewing and fabrication, she is known for using advanced makeup techniques to complete fully immersive transformations.
She has worked with a variety of brands, such as Lootcrate, 20th Century Fox, Dreamhack, AVC Entertainment, Anime Expo, Dallas Fuel, Hulu, Coca Cola, and Blizzard Entertainment; creating promotional content and organizing meetups. She also shares insight into how brand partnerships differ from competition builds, what she looks for when judging contests, and how the cosplay industry has evolved over the years.
Her work has won numerous awards and when not busy creating, she can be found doing guest appearances around the country.
 
(1:53) How did Melanie learn to sew and who were her influencers?
(4:10) What was Melanie like as a little girl before cosplay?
(5:28) What brought her to the United States?
(8:30) What drew Melanie to costume making and what was the first costume she ever made?
(10:00) How did her early years in cosplay affect what she does today?
(11:47) How does her work on makeup and costuming influence each other?
(14:23) What are some of the tools and materials that are important to her?
(17:00) Melanie explains how working with brands and collaborations is different than other projects.
(22:51) What does she look for when judging competitions?
(26:44) What changes has she seen over her involvement in cosplay.
(30:10) What skills do sewists and quilters have that will help them get started I cosplay?
(32:56) Where does she find her inspiration?
(34:10) What’s next for her and what’s her dream?
(35:26)Is there a question we didn’t ask?
(35:42) You can reach her at her email [email protected] and on Instagram.@mjasminedesign

Be sure to subscribe to, review and rate this podcast on your favorite platform…and visit our website sewandsopodcast.com for more information about today’s and all of our Guests.

Our guest today is Maelynn Wood, quilt pattern designer and owner of Mae Just Sew. Born and raised in Maine and now a West Coast transplant, Maelynn draws deep inspiration from the natural beauty of the Pacific Northwest—a place that mirrors her design style: grounded, thoughtful, and quietly modern. She learned to hand sew in a high school home-ec class and honestly can’t remember a time when a needle and thread weren’t close at hand. Although she began quilting seriously in 2021, Maelynn has quickly become known for patterns that blend traditional techniques with a fresh, approachable aesthetic designed to welcome quilters of all skill levels.
When she’s not designing, Maelynn is raising two kids with her husband Ben, gardening, reading the classics, sipping lattes, traveling with her family—and occasionally sharing the spotlight with her pup, Butter, who makes frequent appearances on Instagram.
When not quilting, she can be found in her vegetable garden, her rose garden, reading the classics of slipping a latte. AND…she loves to travel!
 
(1:40) How did Maelynn learn to sew?
(2:40) Who were the women who taught her to sew and what kind of influences did they have? Hear about the square dancers!
(4:00) Hear about a deeply fond memory Maelynn has of spending time with her grandmother.
(6:35) As an expectant mom she sewed a lot for each child. She shares why this was so very important to her.
(11:34) in 2021 she began to quilt…why?
(15:23) Maelynn decided to take a pattern writing class…why?
(19:44) She used to call quilting “the dark side”? Why and what’s changed for her now?!
(22:59) Learn why she named her company Mae Just Sew.
(24:12) What did her life look like prior to Mae Just Sew?
(27:59) Learn the three reasons why Maelynn quilts.
(31:14) There are many things she loves to do when not sewing…one of the biggest is travelling with her family. She tells of some of her favorite adventures.
(35:30) How have her adventures influenced her work?
(36:54) What’s next and what’s her dream?
(38:29) What didn’t I ask? Get ready for a little…no, a LOT of encouragement!
(41:50 ) You can reach out to Maelynn at www.maejustsew.com, #mae.just.sew on Instagram

Be sure to subscribe to, review and rate this podcast on your favorite platform…and visit our website sewandsopodcast.com for more information about today’s and all of our Guests.

Our guest today is the incomparable Kenneth D. King, returning to the Sew & So Podcast after first joining us on Episode 72.Kenneth is a New York–based haute couturier renowned for his mastery of evening wear, couture technique, and design education.
Born and raised in Salinas, Kansas, and later moving to Oklahoma, Kenneth’s path to fashion excellence led him to earn a degree in fashion merchandising from Central State University and to study patternmaking in San Francisco under Paris-trained Simmin Sethna. His extraordinary career includes selling to elite boutiques such as Maxfield, Wilkes Bashford, and Ultimo, designing for icons like Geena Davis, Cloris Leachman, Bernie Taupin, and Elton John, and having his work featured on red carpets, music videos, and television commercials.
Kenneth’s creations now reside in the permanent collections of the De Young Museum, LACMA, The Oakland Museum, and London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. In addition to designing, he is an Adjunct Assistant Professor at the Fashion Institute of New York, a Contributing Editor for Threads Magazine, an instructor for Craftsy and Burda, and the author of multiple acclaimed books on couture sewing techniques.
In this episode, Kenneth joins us to discuss his newest book, Doll Couture – The Red-Carpet Edition, his inspirations, collaborations, and what continues to drive his creativity today.
 
(3:35) Kenneth reminds us how he learned to so and who influenced him.
(4:40) He tells about his grandmother and her influence on him.
(5:20) He talks about why people are forced to create in a certain style and what can be done to more out of this mold.
(7:53) He talks about his new inspirations and gives us a history lesson on new York’s Ladies’ Mile.
(10:26) Learn about Kenneth’s collaborations
(11:40) What was it like for Kenneth to work with his husband Andrew?
(14:23) What’s new with Kenneth?
(16:07) Learn about Kenneth’s new book Doll Couture – The Red-Carpet Edition.
(18:15) How is this new book different from the first one?
(21:00) Learn about the book’s Easter Eggs
(21:15) What Red Carpet moments inspired his character’s designs?
(22:33) Does working on a small-scale change how he thinks about proportions and other considerations?
(24:05) What items from doll sized couture will help those creating full-sized garments?
(25:20) How long did it take Kenneth to complete his book?
(27:06) There was an untraditional path to publishing Kenneth’s books…he shares this with us.
(31:48) What’s it like when he is finally handed his first copy of a new book?
(33:40) Kenneth recounts the story of his relationship with Elton John and the hats he created for him.
(36:00) What’s next for Kenneth?
(37:34) What’s his dream? And, how can you help?!
(38:10)What question didn’t we ask that he wished we had asked?
(38:33) Reach out to Kenneth at [email protected]

Be sure to subscribe to, review and rate this podcast on your favorite platform…and visit our website sewandsopodcast.com for more information about today’s and all of our Guests.