The Tramping Life

Derrick Field has spent a lifetime in the hills — first as a deer culler in the 1960s, then as a ranger, hut builder, track cutter, mountain runner, and now as Chair of the Greater Wellington Backcountry Network. In this wide-ranging conversation, Derek reflects on the hard graft of culling in the Tararuas, cutting new tracks in Taranaki and the Wairarapa, building huts that are still standing today, and the volunteer mahi that keeps the backcountry alive. From sleeping in ratty huts to running the Southern Crossing in a day, Derek shares stories that capture the grit, humour, and passion behind decades of work in New Zealand’s hills.
https://gwbn.org.nz/home/

Today we head to Canterbury to explore the Mount Somers Track in Hakatere Conservation Park. Less than two hours’ drive from Christchurch, this popular tramp circles the slopes of Mount Somers, linking the Sharplin Falls Car Park and Woolshed Creek Car Park trailheads. The track combines striking volcanic rock formations, historic mining remnants, and wide views across the Canterbury foothills and plains.

I walked the circuit over a hot early-summer weekend about a decade ago. The trip included a climb to the 1,686-metre summit of Mount Somers, quiet trails despite the good weather, and some memorable highlights including the Water Caves, the dramatic Pinnacles rock formations, and the spectacular setting of Woolshed Creek Hut.

The Mount Somers Track offers a varied two-day tramp through beech forest, tussock slopes, and open high country, with a mix of natural scenery and local history. In this episode I share an overview of the route, my experience on the track, the key highlights along the way, and some practical advice for anyone planning to walk it.

Hazel Phillips is a tramper and author, whose books explore the landscapes, histories, and human stories behind New Zealand’s tracks and huts.
 
Hazel reflects on early tramping trauma, the 'stupid' Harper Pass tramp, and experiences that don’t always go to plan — from river mishaps to self-arresting on snow.
 
We discuss Hazel’s writing, including her books Solo and Fire & Ice, her fascination with the hidden histories of huts, tracks and tragedies, and the research process behind uncovering those stories. Hazel shares insights into balancing writing, work, and tramping, her views on managing high-use tracks like the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, and what’s next with her upcoming book Great Hearts, focusing on early women climbers in the Aoraki / Mount Cook region.
 
It’s a wide-ranging conversation about resilience, risk, and storytelling.
https://www.masseypress.ac.nz/authors/hazel-phillips
https://wilderlife.nz/author/hazel-phillips/

Today we head into Mount Aspiring National Park for one of the South Island’s classic backcountry tramps, the Gillespie Pass Circuit. This spectacular 58 km circuit links the Young and Wilkin valleys, crossing the 1,500 m Gillespie Pass and travelling through beech forest, wide river valleys, and high alpine terrain. Along the way sits one of the best side trips in the region: the climb to Crucible Lake, a glacier-fed alpine lake tucked beneath Mount Alba.

I walked the circuit in December about a decade ago, managing much of it in two long days thanks to a combination of jet boat access up the Makarora River and a helicopter ride out from Siberia Hut. Along the way there were wet valley walks, crowded huts, spectacular views from Gillespie Pass, and a memorable evening hike up to Crucible Lake just before sunset.

The Gillespie Pass Circuit combines classic West Coast–style valley travel with dramatic alpine scenery, making it one of the most rewarding multi-day tramps in the region. In this episode I share an overview of the route, my experience on the track, highlights such as Crucible Lake, and some practical advice for anyone planning to walk the circuit.

Emeritus Professor of Ecology David Norton has spent a lifetime exploring Aotearoa’s backcountry — from teenage climbs in Arthur’s Pass to fieldwork deep in Westland’s forests. In this episode, he reflects on how those early tramping adventures shaped a career in ecology, restoration, and helping farmers understand the biodiversity on their land.
 
We talk about memorable trips in South Westland, riflemen and kaka, the hidden damage deer cause to our forests, and how trampers can help restore resilience to the landscapes they love. David also shares insights from the Think Like a Forest film and explains why native forests — not pine plantations — hold the key to a sustainable future for Aotearoa.
https://www.instagram.com/davidnortonnz/