The Tramping Life

In this episode of The Tramping Life we head to Rakiura / Stewart Island for one of New Zealand’s most remote and demanding coastal tramps, the North West Circuit. This 125 km circuit follows the rugged northern coastline of the island through Rakiura National Park, passing windswept beaches, granite headlands, wetlands, and dense native bush. It typically takes 9–11 days to complete and links a chain of backcountry huts spaced roughly a day’s walk apart.

I walked a shortened 100 km version of the circuit over seven days in 2021, travelling clockwise from Freshwater Hut back to the island’s main settlement at Oban. The trip began with a last-minute change of plans after weather cancelled my flight to Mason Bay.

The Northwest Circuit is a true wilderness tramp, with long empty beaches, muddy bush tracks, river crossings, and dramatic coastal scenery. In this episode I share my experience on the track, including wildlife encounters, memorable huts, and some tough days on the trail, along with practical advice for anyone considering taking on this iconic Stewart Island adventure.

Peter Laurenson is the author of Occasional Climber, Khumbu: Gateway to Mount Everest, and most recently Aotearoa Light, books that combine thoughtful writing with striking photography from New Zealand and the Himalaya.

Peter reflects on growing up in New Plymouth, discovering the mountains later in life, and how his first journey to the Khumbu region of Nepal in the late 1980s shaped his relationship with tramping, climbing, and photography. We talk about returning to the New Zealand backcountry, joining the Alpine Club, and memorable trips across the country — from volcanic plateaus to long traverses on the tops.

The conversation also explores Peter’s views on tourism growth, environmental change, and how places like the Himalaya have transformed over decades of visitation. Peter shares insights into photographing while tramping, lightweight camera systems, panoramic image stitching, and the role of post-processing in telling a deeper story.

We also discuss his work as editor of FMC’s Backcountry magazine, the challenges facing print publications, and how his writing has evolved to engage with climate change and responsibility. We finish with reflections on perspective, ageing, and what really matters when it comes to a tramping bucket list."
https://www.occasionalclimber.co.nz/
https://www.unitybooks.co.nz/products/aotearoa-light

In this episode of The Tramping Life we explore two very different hikes in and around Auckland: the coastal Waikōwhai Walkway and the hilltop Mount William Walkway. Both offer rewarding walking close to the city, with great views and a surprising sense of escape not far from the urban area.

The Waikōwhai Walkway follows part of the northern shoreline of the Manukau Harbour, running roughly 10 km between Hillsborough Bay and Lynfield Cove. The route combines foreshore walking, native bush tracks, and several shorter loop options, with plenty of birdlife and coastal scenery along the way.

Further south, the Mount William Walkway climbs through bush and farmland on the edge of the Bombay Hills to the 373-metre summit of Mount William. From the top there are wide views across both the Auckland and Waikato regions.

In this episode I share my experience walking these tracks while living in Auckland, the highlights along each route, and some practical advice for anyone looking for a good training hike close to the city.

Derrick Field has spent a lifetime in the hills — first as a deer culler in the 1960s, then as a ranger, hut builder, track cutter, mountain runner, and now as Chair of the Greater Wellington Backcountry Network. In this wide-ranging conversation, Derek reflects on the hard graft of culling in the Tararuas, cutting new tracks in Taranaki and the Wairarapa, building huts that are still standing today, and the volunteer mahi that keeps the backcountry alive. From sleeping in ratty huts to running the Southern Crossing in a day, Derek shares stories that capture the grit, humour, and passion behind decades of work in New Zealand’s hills.
https://gwbn.org.nz/home/

Today we head to Canterbury to explore the Mount Somers Track in Hakatere Conservation Park. Less than two hours’ drive from Christchurch, this popular tramp circles the slopes of Mount Somers, linking the Sharplin Falls Car Park and Woolshed Creek Car Park trailheads. The track combines striking volcanic rock formations, historic mining remnants, and wide views across the Canterbury foothills and plains.

I walked the circuit over a hot early-summer weekend about a decade ago. The trip included a climb to the 1,686-metre summit of Mount Somers, quiet trails despite the good weather, and some memorable highlights including the Water Caves, the dramatic Pinnacles rock formations, and the spectacular setting of Woolshed Creek Hut.

The Mount Somers Track offers a varied two-day tramp through beech forest, tussock slopes, and open high country, with a mix of natural scenery and local history. In this episode I share an overview of the route, my experience on the track, the key highlights along the way, and some practical advice for anyone planning to walk it.