The Tramping Life

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I tackle one of the Lakes Region’s most challenging tramps: the Motatapu Track.

This 49 km route runs between Glendhu Bay near Wanaka and Macetown near Arrowtown, crossing high tussock country with almost no flat sections. With around 3,000 m of cumulative ascent and descent over three major hills, it’s a hard but rewarding walk offering expansive views of Lake Wanaka, the Arrow River, and the surrounding peaks. The highest point is the 1,270 m Roses Saddle, and the track is largely exposed, with minimal shelter, three 20-bunk huts, and no booking requirements—though it gets busy in summer as part of Te Araroa.

I share my experience walking the track in two days, including tussock-covered ridgelines, challenging descents, and the solitude of Highland Creek Hut. Highlights include the spectacular panoramas from Jack Hall’s Saddle, the historic gold rush town of Macetown, and the sheer sense of remoteness that makes the Motatapu Track one of New Zealand’s most physically demanding yet memorable tramps.

Bruce “Chopper” Reay has spent much of his life deep in the bush, from possum hunting and eel fishing in the wilds of the South Island, to his current home at Saxton Hut near Fiordland’s Hollyford Track. In this episode, Bruce shares his stories of living months at a time in the wilderness, eating possum, nearly failing his university degree due to over-tramping, and being rescued multiple times by helicopters after close calls in the mountains. We talk about his love of the bush, his time with the Canterbury University Tramping Club, and the lifestyle he’s carved out away from towns and bureaucracy.

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I explore one of New Zealand’s most iconic coastal walks: the Queen Charlotte Track in the Marlborough Sounds.

This 71 km route is typically walked from Ship Cove in the north to Anakiwa in the south, following ridgelines and shorelines with terrain that undulates between sea level and hills up to around 450 m. The track passes through native forest, across headlands, and around numerous coves and bays, offering dramatic views of sunken valleys, rocky coastlines, and the surrounding Marlborough Sounds. Part of Te Araroa, the track crosses private and council land, requiring a Queen Charlotte Track Land Cooperative pass for sections near Kenepuru Saddle, and features a mix of DOC campsites and private lodges, with the option to transfer bags between overnight stops.

I share my experience walking the track in November 2020, from the historic Ship Cove—where Captain Cook anchored—to the towering ridgelines and scenic viewpoints along the peninsula. Along the way, I met fellow walkers and bikers, admired thousand-year-old rimu trees, enjoyed the quiet of DOC campsites, and even spotted playful weka. Highlights include the mix of coastal and inland scenery, historic interpretation at Ship Cove, and the opportunity to relax at campsites with birdsong as your alarm clock.

Duncan Webb is the Labour MP for Christchurch Central and lifelong tramper. From his early days exploring the forests of England to challenging multi-day treks across New Zealand’s high country, Duncan shares his most memorable adventures, close encounters with wildlife, and the lessons he’s learned navigating both the outdoors and the halls of Parliament.

We chat about his first icy river mishap in Arthur’s Pass, his favourite alpine huts, tramping with family, and the balance between tramping and hunting. Duncan reflects on the complexities of New Zealand’s backcountry, conservation, and pest management, offering a unique perspective on how outdoor experiences shape values and leadership.

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I explore one of the South Island’s best-known private tramps: the Kaikōura Coast Track.

This 26 km two-day route is run by a pair of local farming families and offers a rare combination of epic coastline, regenerating native bush, farmland, and peaceful accommodation for a maximum of a dozen walkers each day. Day one follows the coast and inland gullies to The Whare, while day two climbs to the 486 m summit of Skull Peak before returning to the Beach House at Ngaroma.

I share my experience walking it in April 2025, from zig-zagging across beaches shaped by the 2016 Kaikōura earthquake to the towering matai, kahikatea, and totara trees of Medina Gully. Along the way, I encountered spectacular viewpoints, quiet inland tracks, and the character-filled cottages that make the overnight stays so memorable.