The Tramping Life

In this episode of The Tramping Life we head to the Greenstone–Caples Track, a 61 km circuit through the Greenstone Conservation Area near Glenorchy at the head of Lake Wakatipu. Often overshadowed by the nearby Routeburn Track, the Greenstone–Caples offers an easier multi-day tramp through two very different valleys – the broad, open Greenstone Valley and the narrower, more forested Caples Valley – linked by the 698 m McKellar Saddle.

I walked the track solo in winter over four days, initially planning a quiet escape after a period of exhaustion from work. What followed included misty valley walks, empty huts, failed attempts to light hut fires, unexpected company from hunters, and some remarkable dark night skies.

The Greenstone–Caples isn’t as dramatic as some of New Zealand’s alpine Great Walks, but it’s a beautiful part of the country and a very accessible multi-day tramp. With three well-spaced huts and relatively gentle terrain, it’s a great introduction to tramping for those looking to build confidence in the backcountry.

In this episode I share an overview of the track, highlights from the walk, and some practical advice for anyone thinking about tramping the Greenstone–Caples.

My guest this episode is Kayla Kingdon-Bebb, Chief Executive of WWF New Zealand, and a passionate advocate for biodiversity, climate action, and the role of indigenous communities in conservation.
 
Originally from Canada, Kayla grew up exploring forests and fjords before moving to Aotearoa more than 15 years ago. We talk about her first tramps in New Zealand, what makes the Heaphy Track so special, her love of the takahe, and how her experiences with grizzly bears reshaped her views on human–wildlife connection.
 
Kayla also shares insights into WWF’s work on ocean conservation, the challenge of bycatch, and why New Zealand’s hut network is such a national treasure.
 
It’s a wide-ranging conversation about adventure, purpose, and protecting what makes Aotearoa unique.
https://wwf.org.nz/

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I tackle one of the Lakes Region’s most challenging tramps: the Motatapu Track.

This 49 km route runs between Glendhu Bay near Wanaka and Macetown near Arrowtown, crossing high tussock country with almost no flat sections. With around 3,000 m of cumulative ascent and descent over three major hills, it’s a hard but rewarding walk offering expansive views of Lake Wanaka, the Arrow River, and the surrounding peaks. The highest point is the 1,270 m Roses Saddle, and the track is largely exposed, with minimal shelter, three 20-bunk huts, and no booking requirements—though it gets busy in summer as part of Te Araroa.

I share my experience walking the track in two days, including tussock-covered ridgelines, challenging descents, and the solitude of Highland Creek Hut. Highlights include the spectacular panoramas from Jack Hall’s Saddle, the historic gold rush town of Macetown, and the sheer sense of remoteness that makes the Motatapu Track one of New Zealand’s most physically demanding yet memorable tramps.

Bruce “Chopper” Reay has spent much of his life deep in the bush, from possum hunting and eel fishing in the wilds of the South Island, to his current home at Saxton Hut near Fiordland’s Hollyford Track. In this episode, Bruce shares his stories of living months at a time in the wilderness, eating possum, nearly failing his university degree due to over-tramping, and being rescued multiple times by helicopters after close calls in the mountains. We talk about his love of the bush, his time with the Canterbury University Tramping Club, and the lifestyle he’s carved out away from towns and bureaucracy.

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I explore one of New Zealand’s most iconic coastal walks: the Queen Charlotte Track in the Marlborough Sounds.

This 71 km route is typically walked from Ship Cove in the north to Anakiwa in the south, following ridgelines and shorelines with terrain that undulates between sea level and hills up to around 450 m. The track passes through native forest, across headlands, and around numerous coves and bays, offering dramatic views of sunken valleys, rocky coastlines, and the surrounding Marlborough Sounds. Part of Te Araroa, the track crosses private and council land, requiring a Queen Charlotte Track Land Cooperative pass for sections near Kenepuru Saddle, and features a mix of DOC campsites and private lodges, with the option to transfer bags between overnight stops.

I share my experience walking the track in November 2020, from the historic Ship Cove—where Captain Cook anchored—to the towering ridgelines and scenic viewpoints along the peninsula. Along the way, I met fellow walkers and bikers, admired thousand-year-old rimu trees, enjoyed the quiet of DOC campsites, and even spotted playful weka. Highlights include the mix of coastal and inland scenery, historic interpretation at Ship Cove, and the opportunity to relax at campsites with birdsong as your alarm clock.