The Tramping Life

Today we head into Mount Aspiring National Park for one of the South Island’s classic backcountry tramps, the Gillespie Pass Circuit. This spectacular 58 km circuit links the Young and Wilkin valleys, crossing the 1,500 m Gillespie Pass and travelling through beech forest, wide river valleys, and high alpine terrain. Along the way sits one of the best side trips in the region: the climb to Crucible Lake, a glacier-fed alpine lake tucked beneath Mount Alba.

I walked the circuit in December about a decade ago, managing much of it in two long days thanks to a combination of jet boat access up the Makarora River and a helicopter ride out from Siberia Hut. Along the way there were wet valley walks, crowded huts, spectacular views from Gillespie Pass, and a memorable evening hike up to Crucible Lake just before sunset.

The Gillespie Pass Circuit combines classic West Coast–style valley travel with dramatic alpine scenery, making it one of the most rewarding multi-day tramps in the region. In this episode I share an overview of the route, my experience on the track, highlights such as Crucible Lake, and some practical advice for anyone planning to walk the circuit.

Emeritus Professor of Ecology David Norton has spent a lifetime exploring Aotearoa’s backcountry — from teenage climbs in Arthur’s Pass to fieldwork deep in Westland’s forests. In this episode, he reflects on how those early tramping adventures shaped a career in ecology, restoration, and helping farmers understand the biodiversity on their land.
 
We talk about memorable trips in South Westland, riflemen and kaka, the hidden damage deer cause to our forests, and how trampers can help restore resilience to the landscapes they love. David also shares insights from the Think Like a Forest film and explains why native forests — not pine plantations — hold the key to a sustainable future for Aotearoa.
https://www.instagram.com/davidnortonnz/

In this episode of we head to the slopes of Mount Taranaki to visit one of the most spectacular and highest public huts in the North Island, Syme Hut. Sitting at around 1,940 m on an old volcanic cone high on the mountain’s southern flank, the hut offers remarkable views across much of the North Island on a clear day.

The route begins at Dawson Falls Visitor Centre and climbs steadily through forest and subalpine vegetation before emerging onto steep volcanic slopes of loose scoria and rock. The final section is an exposed climb towards Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut itself, gaining roughly 1,000 metres of elevation over about 9 kilometres.

I visited Syme Hut while attempting a section of the old around-the-mountain circuit in 2021. What followed was a long and windy climb, some difficult decisions about whether to continue, and eventually one of the most memorable hut stays I’ve ever had, with spectacular sunset and sunrise views from high on the mountain.

In this episode I share an overview of the route, the history of the hut, my experience climbing to it, and some practical advice for anyone thinking of making the trip.

Chris Maclean is a historian, writer, and unapologetic solo tramper who has spent a lifetime in the hills.
 
In this episode, Chris shares stories of swimming rivers with a pack on his back, being rescued from the Ruahines after his heart gave out, and the joy (and occasional awkwardness) of tramping in the nude.
 
We also trace his journey from publishing Tararua: The Story of a Mountain Range to co-authoring Tramping: A New Zealand History, his reflections on working with Sean Barnett and Robbie Burton, and his thoughts on how the digital age changed the world of New Zealand outdoor publishing.
 
A rich, funny, and deeply human conversation about the land, its stories, and what it means to truly be immersed in the New Zealand outdoors.
https://www.chrismaclean.co.nz/

In this episode of The Tramping Life we head to the Greenstone–Caples Track, a 61 km circuit through the Greenstone Conservation Area near Glenorchy at the head of Lake Wakatipu. Often overshadowed by the nearby Routeburn Track, the Greenstone–Caples offers an easier multi-day tramp through two very different valleys – the broad, open Greenstone Valley and the narrower, more forested Caples Valley – linked by the 698 m McKellar Saddle.

I walked the track solo in winter over four days, initially planning a quiet escape after a period of exhaustion from work. What followed included misty valley walks, empty huts, failed attempts to light hut fires, unexpected company from hunters, and some remarkable dark night skies.

The Greenstone–Caples isn’t as dramatic as some of New Zealand’s alpine Great Walks, but it’s a beautiful part of the country and a very accessible multi-day tramp. With three well-spaced huts and relatively gentle terrain, it’s a great introduction to tramping for those looking to build confidence in the backcountry.

In this episode I share an overview of the track, highlights from the walk, and some practical advice for anyone thinking about tramping the Greenstone–Caples.