The Tramping Life

Jan Finlayson has spent a lifetime exploring and advocating for New Zealand’s wild places. In this conversation she reflects on childhood memories of camping and school tramps, early adventures on the Routeburn, and the lessons learned from near misses in the mountains and rivers. We talk about her strong views on hut booking systems and access rights, and why legal roads and stewardship land matter for the future of conservation. Jan’s stories move between humour, challenge, and deep care for the backcountry — and remind us what’s at stake in protecting the places we tramp.

Today we head into Nelson Lakes National Park to one of the country’s most iconic alpine destinations — Angelus Hut.

Perched at 1,650 metres beside Lake Angelus and surrounded by the rugged Travers Range, Angelus is a true alpine hut — spectacular in fine weather, serious and unforgiving when conditions turn. In this episode I walk through the five main routes to the hut: the exposed Robert Ridge, the more sheltered Speargrass Track and Speargrass Creek route, the Travers Cascade route, the steep Mount Cedric route from Sabine Hut, and the demanding unmarked line via Sunset Saddle from Hopeless Hut.

I share the history of the hut — from the original 1956 tin shelter built by the Nelson Ski Club with supplies dropped by RNZAF Bristol Freighter, through to the modern 28-bunk hut opened in 2010 — and reflect on multiple visits over the years, including torrential rain, hailstorms, solo travel, knee injuries, and one trip that ended with New Zealand entering national lockdown.

Angelus Hut is as much about decision-making as it is about scenery. I discuss route choice, alpine risk, weather awareness, booking requirements, and why this is not a place to push on in marginal conditions. If you’re considering the classic Travers–Sabine Circuit, or simply want to understand what makes Angelus one of New Zealand’s standout alpine huts, this episode will give you both context and practical insight.

Marios Gavalas has spent decades exploring Aotearoa’s mountains, forests and coastlines — and helping others do the same through his books, guiding, and photography.
 
In this episode of The Tramping Life, Marius shares stories from his early days tramping the Coromandel with little more than a tent and a pair of skis, to writing 18 guidebooks that introduced countless people to New Zealand’s tracks.
 
We talk about his transition from writer to professional guide, what it’s like to live for a decade in a yurt, and why his “tramping bucket list” now begins just outside his back door in the Motueka Valley.
 
Along the way, Marios reflects on the joy of slow walking, his encounters with falcons and penguins, and the quiet art of living close to nature — with just a thin layer of canvas in between.
https://hikingnewzealand.com/blog/meet-our-guide-marios-gavalas

Today we’re heading to Banks Peninsula and one of New Zealand’s most varied multi-day walks — a privately run track that combines coastal scenery, wildlife, and unusually comfortable accommodation. This episode explores Banks Track.

Opened in 1989, Banks Track was New Zealand’s first private walking track. The 31km route is walked over two or three days, crossing farmland, regenerating native bush, volcanic ridgelines, and dramatic coastline, with wide views over Akaroa Harbour and the Pacific Ocean. Along the way, walkers often encounter little blue penguins, New Zealand fur seals, and abundant birdlife.

I walked Banks Track over three days, through forest reserves, swam beneath waterfalls, followed exposed coastal cliffs, and stayed at Onuku Farm, Flea Bay, and Stony Bay — each offering a very different experience, from penguin colonies to outdoor wood-fired baths.

In this episode I give an overview of Banks Track, describe my experience walking it, highlight the wildlife and accommodation that make it unique, and share practical advice for anyone considering either the two-day or three-day option.
https://bankstrack.co.nz/

Neil Silverwood is a leading photographer, conservationist, and lifelong caver. Neil takes us not only deep underground but also high into the hills, sharing stories of tramping, caving, and flying.
 
We talk about the challenges of caving – from hauling 35kg of gear, to eight hours stuck in a squeeze, to emerging from the dark into alpine light. Neil reflects on caves as “a black-and-white world,” the universality of claustrophobia, and the joy of taking flight through paragliding. Neil also recalls adventures on Stewart Island, where the remoteness, wild weather, and rugged coastline bring their own challenges and rewards for trampers and explorers.
https://www.neilsilverwood.com/