Mike Yardley: Autumn alpine frolics in Ruapehu
The wondrous Ruapehu region never ceases to amaze me at its capacity to stir all senses, from its expansive platter of leisurely outdoorsy pursuits. It easily ranks as one of my all-time favourite playgrounds in New Zealand and I have revelled in its glories via a multitude of modes in recent years. I have savoured exceptional mountain bike trails, jet boating, quad biking and world-class hiking. Not to mention skiing. But in the autumn months, why not head to the heart of Tongariro National Park and take a ride to the summit of Ruapehu from Whakapapa village? The radiant Sky Waka, New Zealand’s longest gondola ride, fully warrants the stature as a signature Kiwi experience. I’ve always been in awe of the alpine engineering audacity of the Swiss – and the Sky Waka absolutely projects that same sense of spine-tingling prowess. Spanning 1.8km from the base station and zipping you up 390m, Whakapapa’s dramatically serrated volcanic landscape sweeps you up, as you gawp in wonder out of the glasshouse-like cabin, luxuriously appointed with heated leather seating! Situated at 2,020m above sea level, the cherry on top is Whakapapa Ski Area's Knoll Ridge Chalet which is New Zealand’s highest café. As you gush superlatives over the horizon-searching views, it’s a novel perch to enjoy coffee from Pātaka, drinks in The Back Bar, or nosh in style while marvelling at the skyline from Knoll Ridge’s giant floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking The Pinnacles. I highly recommend “Tea at 2020m”, Whakapapa’s stirring take on traditional high tea. It’s actually considered the highest high tea on the planet, with a delectable tiered stand of sandwiches, savouries and cakes to work your way through. It’s currently available until the end of April, prior to the mountain’s seasonal switch to winter activities. After feasting on far too many tasty morsels, the mountain trails were calling. There are over 10km of marked trails to strike out on, ranging from 20 minute strolls to 3 hours return alpine hikes. Without its snow-coat, it’s a compelling way to admire the dramatic terrain and its mash-up of volcanic rock, pumice, scoria and sand. Close to Chateau Tongariro, there’s a stack of tasty wee tracks. The Tawhai Falls walk is a heart-stealer, leading you through mountain toatoa and beech forest to a waterfall tumbling over the edge of an ancient lava flow. It’s one of two waterfalls used in Lord of the Rings that depicted Gollum fishing, hence its nickname is Gollum’s Pool. (Mangawhero Falls, very close to Waitonga Falls, is the other location that was cast as Gollum’s Pool.) It was sad to see the sorry sight of the moth-balled Chateau Tongariro, although the local rumour mill suggests a wealthy Irish businessman is a hot prospect to breathe new life into the grand lady. Just behind the Chateau, Taranaki Falls is a return walk for even grander waterworks. Passing through a mix of tussock, alpine shrublands and beech forest, the track wraps around the lower slopes of Ruapehu, with vintage views of Ngauruhoe’s symmetrical cone. A flock of native birds, including whiteheads and grey warblers, serenaded my stroll all the way to Taranaki Falls, tumbling 20 metres over the edge of a large andesite lava flow which erupted from Ruapehu 15,000 years ago. If you’re up for a half-day advanced hike, I definitely recommend the Tupapakura Falls walk. It starts just out of National Park village, on Fishers Road. The track has been upgraded by the local community in partnership with the Department of Conservation. It begins with an easy 20 minute walk to the Taranaki Lookout, serving up panoramic wide-range perspectives of Mt Taranaki and Mt Ruapehu. Beyond this point, the trail becomes a back country adventure track, which will test your stamina in the Erua Forest. The track follows a ridge and then descends steeply to a stream. There are good stands of tawa, mature rimu, miro and totara to see along the way. Climbing from the stream, the track winds its way around bluffs to a sparkling lookout point with views of the long-drop falls. You’ll need at least four hours to knock off this 11km long track. Refuel? Reward yourself with a thirst-quencher at Schnapps Bar & Restaurant in National Park Village. Heading south? Synonymous with Ohakune as much as carrots, the famed main-street Chocolate Éclair Shop is worth the trip alone. Sinking your teeth into one of their celebrated giant cream-filled, chocolate-topped pastries is one of life’s great pleasures. Just north of town, a curious diversion is Horopito Motors. It’s featured in two classic Kiwi flicks, Smash Palace and Goodbye Pork Pie. Nicknamed Smash Palace, for a gold coin donation, you can see some film memorabilia and have a look around the yard. It’s quite a yard – more like a vast car graveyard because Smash Palace are the biggest vintage car dismantlers in Australasia. It’s like an enormous op-shop for old cars. They sell parts around the world for cars made between the 1920s-1970s and also for some early models that were built before WW1. The on-site museum also includes owner Colin Fredricksen's favourite car restorations on display. Back in my Ezi Car Rental vehicle, I was bound for Taumarunui, but I also enjoyed a short layover in the pint-sized village of Owhango, to reacquaint myself with Ohinetonga Scenic Reserve. Just over a decade ago a group of passionate local residents banded together to bring the birdlife back to this unlogged native podocarp forest, mercifully spared from the ravages of historic milling. This glorious slice of wilderness is on the boundary of Tongariro Forest Park and is now one of our national kiwi sanctuaries. It’s also home to a vast flock native bird species including the whio (blue duck), dabchick, whitehead, North Island robin and kereru. Take a stroll on the 3.8km loop track around the reserve for some seriously soothing forest-bathing. I gave a massive 600 year old totara tree a fresh hug, after first marvelling over this mighty specimen four years ago. Yes, I’m still a happy little tree-hugger. I romped my way around the Ruapehu region in a trusty hybrid Ford Puma, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. I thoroughly enjoyed the Ezi experience, where excellent vehicles, super sharp prices and fast & friendly service are all part of the package. Ezi Car Rental operates an extensive network from 24 locations across the country. They’re everywhere you want to be with vehicles to suit your specific needs. Head to www.ezicarrental.co.nz The drama and grandeur of Ruapehu is power-packed as a year-round wonderland for outdoorsy adventure. Crowned by the triple volcanoes of the central plateau and the majestic Tongariro National Park, make tracks to the wide open spaces and hospitality charms of Ruapehu. www.visitruapehu.com Mike Yardley is our Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
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