The Struggle Climbing Show

• Weekend Warrior: Breaking Into 5.12 with Simple Strength Training, Mindset Hacks, and Spreadsheet Nerdery

  Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode, we connect with Weekend Warrior Annette Guo to explore: How she went from struggling on 5.11 to sending twelve 5.12s in a year Simple strength training that resulted in less injuries and her biggest sending spree ever How she sent her first V5, V6, and V7 in a matter of a couple months The impact of picking one thing to focus on The power of doing regular self-assessments and what it has taught her How to build confidence indoors that translates to outdoor projects Making quick gains by climbing with the right crew Her impressive system for planning and logging her training and climbing - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Check out Annette's fancy spreadsheets and make a copy for your own use if you're psyched (tabs we discussed were the Assessment and 2024 Sport Climbing Stats... but others might be useful as well): thestruggleclimbingshow.com/annette - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  Check out Annette's sends and struggles on Insta: @4amazingbetas Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/ - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

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  59:41
• Pro Clinic: Dr. Tyler Nelson Answers Top 10 Listener Questions on Finger Training, Strength Training, and Optimizing for Performance

  Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this special Q&A episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance answers YOUR questions, which yielded amazing insights including: Which grip type is the best to train? How to rotate finger training methodologies for optimal results  Which finger training to do pre season vs in season  What’s the ideal percentage of max for safe and effective finger training?  Is it better to be strong for the grade or week for the grade? The mistake of correlating finger strength-to-grade The difference between amateurs and pros on their strength-to-grade performance Surprising study showing elite climbers use less force on climbs than amateurs   Set and rep scheme to avoid fatigue when strength training  Training while injured  How to effectively train power and endurance on the same day  How to beat the spinning pull-up bar carnival game  Do arm wrestling training tactics translate to climbing? How Tyler programs his training and climbing days  What to do if you hit a finger strength plateau - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

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  32:02
• Road to V8 with Nate Drolet: My First (gym) V7, Better Not Stronger, and the Importance of REALLY Trying

  Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Climbing Coach Nate Drolet captains the Struggle Bus on my Road to V8 as we cover: Recap of winter strength and power training Climbing my first gym V7 Getting better without getting stronger Video assessment of recent board struggles Macro vs micro beta when it comes to board training How to learn from our better climbing friends Why Nate could tell I wasn’t REALLY trying Why sport climbing can sabotage bouldering goals Nerd Gummies and other tricks to send - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! If you’re looking to equip your home wall with some beautiful hand-crafted wood holds, check out http://ManaHolds.com And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.     And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

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  1:07:12
• Kyra Condie: How to Perform When It Counts, Simple Training for Strength and Power, and Comp Climbing News

  Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode, elite climber Kyra Condie explores: "You suck try harder" Spray walls vs system boards Struggles with modern comp setting The power of the campus board Her super simple hang board routine Game changing skin care tips Tools to handle performance anxiety How to up/down regulate for a specific objective Updates from the World Cup and Olympic formats The elusive million dollar climbing sponsorship What even are the grades of comp climbs? - CHAPTERS: Struggle: (0:05:48) Training: (0:15:53) Nutrition: (0:38:31) Tactics: (0:47:23) Mental Game: (0:57:19) Purpose: (1:27:58) BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! 5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you’re psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send.  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow   Check out Kyra's YouTube channel, and the Circle Up! Podcast she does with Allison vest.  - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

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  1:37:45
• Weekend Warrior: A Protocol that Added More than 40lbs of Strength PER HAND in About a Year

  Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - The new Weekend Warrior series will feature stories of amateur climbers who have taken their training and performance to new heights, and shine a light on what they feel have been the difference makers in their growth. Today, we're connecting with Aaron Townsley to learn about the simple finger training protocol he developed for himself and some friends, which has yielded amazing results on and off the rock. Here is a doc that Aaron created, outlining the BORK protocol: https://docs.google.com/document/d/14dncDso1ZIMCROkzYJJhVoT6tApUbVw05nVVVMU5PiU/edit?usp=sharing - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. SCARPA: Whether you’re a climber, trail runner, skier, or hiker, SCARPA offers an array of adventure footwear for the adventure seeker in you. with a commitment to sustainability. Shop the whole collection at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

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  1:00:12

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