EP 283: Adrian Ballinger — The Mental and Physical Grind of High-Altitude Climbing, and Lessons for Every Climber
Adrian Ballinger is a renowned alpinist and mountain guide, and has summited Mt. Everest and K2 without supplemental oxygen. We talked about his childhood, misconceptions about what he does, what climbing Everest is actually like, skiing above 8,000 meters, risking his life to send K2, sending Fall of Man 5.13b, how mountaineering compares to projecting 5.13, meeting his wife Emily Harrington, how performance changes with age, lessons everyone should know, and much more. You can learn more about Adrian at adrianballinger.comMad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemNADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-ballingerNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:06) – Growing up(00:06:08) – Connecting with adventure as a kid(00:16:08) – Misconceptions about what Adrian does(00:22:04) – Tech breakthroughs in mountaineering(00:26:04) – Client pressure around summits(00:30:04) – Alpenglow Expeditions(00:33:09) – Regulations on Everest(00:35:08) – What climbing Everest is really like(00:41:04) – Climbing Everest without oxygen(00:49:57) – Preparing for Everest without oxygen(00:58:56) – Skiing accolades(01:01:59) – Skiing above 8,000 meters(01:05:00) – Skiing down vs. rappelling massive peaks(01:08:58) – Fall of Man(01:11:01) – Physically hardest climb(01:12:56) – Mental hardest climb(01:14:57) – Most dangerous climb(01:18:01) – Why Adrian took a risk on K2(01:21:01) – Meeting Emily(01:32:45) – What’s left for Adrian in alpinism(01:34:43) – Switching to hard sport climbing(01:46:43) – Bouldering in Rocklands(01:54:42) – Performance changes with age(01:59:42) – Athletes Adrian looks up to(02:02:40) – Lessons everyone should know(02:05:40) – Adrian’s podcast
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EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects
Kerwin Loukusa lives in Leavenworth, WA, and sent his first V12 and V13 last year while juggling a full-time job, wife, and two young kids. We talked about how he improved his flexibility to send the Freerider in Yosemite, bouldering after having kids, home wall training, the key to building persistent strength, bodyweight manipulation, energy availability, beginner's mind, feeling vs. analysing, weather forecasting hacks, how dew point affects climbing conditions, and much more. A lot of nuggets in this one.The GRINDS Program (FREE Training PDF)thenuggetclimbing.comRúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemNADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kerwin-loukusaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:05) – Flexibility journey(00:08:08) – Identifying limiting factors(00:10:38) – Stemming flexibility continued(00:16:39) – Freerider & Father TIme(00:24:15) – Bouldering after kids(00:26:56) – Mountain running & cardio(00:40:00) – Leveling up to V12 and V13(00:48:07) – Home wall training(01:09:54) – Off-the-wall training(01:11:28) – Building persistent strength(01:16:45) – Pillars 1-3: Proximetry, Rest, & Nutrition(01:32:23) – Know yourself(01:35:06) – Bodyweight & energy availability(01:48:13) – Pillar 4: Mindset(02:01:35) – Slingblade V13(02:10:03) – An obsessive brain(02:14:25) – Obstacles & growth(02:20:43) – Don’t get injured(02:23:42) – Slow & steady gains(02:32:46) – Ease into it(02:37:32) – Intuition & beta iteration(02:45:09) – Beginner's mind(02:50:39) – Feeling vs. analyzing(02:54:26) – Power spots(03:00:30) – Weather forecasting(03:18:03) – Dew point(03:22:43) – Cold rock(03:26:36) – Morning climbing(03:38:36) – Upcoming goals(03:40:50) – Mentorship & stewardship(03:46:18) – Public vs. private land
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Something Different | Robb Wolf — Vitamin D, Zone 2 Cardio Hacks, Strength & Conditioning Timing, & Never Giving Up On Your Health
Robb Wolf is a 2x NYT Best-Selling Author (The Paleo Solution, Wired to Eat) and a leading voice in health, fitness, and nutrition. In this short segment, we cover the benefits of Vitamin D and Zone 2 cardio, how to optimize your strength training, Robb’s recent health struggles, and why you should never give up on your health. You can listen to the full episode by searching for Something Different with Steven Dimmitt wherever you get your podcasts.Robb’s Linksrobbwolf.comdrinklmnt.comjoin.thehealthyrebellion.comOther References:The Nugget - EP 80: Robb Wolf (our first podcast)Dminder AppTimestamps:00:00:00 – Intro00:02:30 – Vitamin D00:06:21 – Separating strength & conditioning00:14:58 – Zone 2 cardio00:20:51 – Robb’s training schedule00:24:56 – Recent health issues00:32:46 – Never give up00:34:06 – The Healthy Rebellion00:35:26 – Don’t major in the minors
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EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want
Eryn Phelps is a licensed trauma counselor who specializes in helping outdoor athletes with anxiety, OCD, and PTSD. We talked about how EMDR helped cancer survivor and podcast guest Sol Wertkin, how to navigate time scarcity and get clear on what you want, overwhelm and panic attacks, grief and shame, labels and identity, and much more.Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemNADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eryn-phelpsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:26) – Partners(00:05:56) – Sol Wertkin(00:12:54) – EMDR(00:27:19) – Sol continued(00:34:00) – Pity, empathy, & compassion(00:39:15) – Perception & victim mindset(00:54:41) – Preventing negative beliefs from taking root(01:00:08) – Mistakes, guilt, & shame(01:05:21) – Trauma from injury(01:10:21) – Grief(01:15:23) – Accepting risk(01:25:23) – Relationships(01:31:27) – Time scarcity & OCD(01:44:17) – Labels & identity(01:48:58) – Anxiety(01:51:53) – Overwhelm(01:58:39) – Panic attacks(02:04:06) – Curing anxiety, PTSD, & OCD(02:09:28) – Getting clear on what you want(02:24:02) – How Eryn makes decisions(02:26:40) – A grass kinda day(02:29:00) – Where to find Eryn(02:32:11) – Complacency & communication(02:36:44) – Dopamine
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Follow-Up: Alex Bridgewater — 3 Sports Psychology Skills That Will Transform Your Climbing
Alex Bridgewater (M.S. in Sports Psychology) is back again to share three new sports psychology skills that have the potential to change your climbing forever. We covered how to practice these skills in your day-to-day life, as well as how to put them into practice in your climbing, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode and support the podcast. *The full version is 1:28:39.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAlex’s Other Episodes:EP 276: Alex Bridgewater ReturnsBONUS: Alex BridgewaterNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:58) – Word to the wise(00:05:40) – Three skills overview(00:06:44) – Skill 1: Values-Based Work(00:28:17) – Skill 2: Dropping the Anchor(00:43:32) – Skill 3: Diffusion/Unhooking(01:01:49) – Putting the skills into practice(01:10:23) – What do you want?(01:18:02) – Expectations(01:22:43) – Manhunt(01:24:20) – Feeling vs. thinking
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