The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

• TBP 301: Three Habits That Have Made Matt and Me Better Climbers

  Coach Matt Pincus and I sat down and talked through 3 habits that we have formed over months or years that have led us to become better climbers.  Matt’s 3 Habits Doing his finger training as part of his warmup for indoor sessions Having a clear plan/objective for every day out Questioning why he falls off by asking, “Why?” three to five times Neely's 3 Habits   My "Three Questions" that keep me in a positive headspace Continual fall practice Nudging myself to get on things that intimidate me  Link to Matt's 6-Month Coaching Package - www.trainingbeta.com/matt

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• TBP 300: Wrist Injury Rehab for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson

  Dr. Tyler Nelson came on the show to talk about common wrist injuries and how to rehab them so you can get back to climbing and training how you want to. You may remember that I had wrist surgery on my TFCC and my husband had wrist surgery for ulnar impaction syndrome, so I inject some anecdotal information into the talk, too. Episode Details some common wrist injuries how they happen what aggravates them in climbing what you should do about them specific exercises to heal and strengthen them how to continue climbing during your injury (when appropriate) how to get a good diagnosis from a professional my own experience with a full TFCC tear and my surgery for that my husband's wrist surgery for ulnar impaction syndrome Episode Links Wrist Loading Instagram Post  TFCC Instagram Post Wrist Pain Rehab Online Course Camp 4 website: camp4humanperformance.com Patreon and Podcast: patreon.com/c/C4HP_/home Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler for coaching or an injury Instagram: @c4hp

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• TBP 299: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Capsulitis

  Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about capsulitis, which is a common finger injury that climbers get. He describes what capsulitis is, how it happens, how to avoid it, and how to treat it if you have it. Find more info on Jared and this episode at trainingbeta.com/media/jared-vagy-capsulitis. Resources from Episode Peer reviewed case study on capsulitis How to use a finger trap for capsulitis Jared’s book Climb Injury-Free. Order his book here.    

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• TBP 298: Enneagram Personality Types in Climbing w/ Becca Droz

  The Enneagram is a personality typing method that I’ve been super interested in for a few years now. I try to type all of my friends, my clients, and other people around me to help me understand them better and have more compassion for them. Knowing my own type has helped me have more compassion for myself and to identify areas I want to improve on in my life, in and outside of climbing. I recently met Becca Droz of sunrise-mindset.com, who is certified as an Enneagram coach, and she’s a climbing coach and guide. She often ends up talking with her clients about what Enneagram type they are and how it shows up for them. I asked her to be on the show to talk about what each of the types looks like in people in general, and how the types show up for us as climbers. We talk in depth about all of the types’ core fears, motivations, strengths, and challenges. We talk a little more extensively about our own types (I am an 8 and she is a 7). Resources Mentioned Becca’s website: sunrise-mindset.com Enneagram Test on Becca’s site: sunrise-mindset.com/enneagramtest Greece trip with Becca: sunrise-mindset.com/greece Suzanne Stabile Books on the Enneagram: Amazon list Suzanne Stabile podcast: The Enneagram Journey  The Enneagram Institute RHETI Test: www.enneagraminstitute.com Integrative 9 Enneagram Test: www.integrative9.com Wisdom of the Enneagram Book: Amazon

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• TBP 297: Overcoming Mental Side of Injuries w/ Jana Unterholzner

  Jana Unterholzner has her master’s degree as a Sport and Performance Psychologist and she recently helped create an online course at unblocd.com to guide climbers through mentally recovering from injuries. I asked her to be on the show to talk about some of the tools and information she provides in that course. In this episode, we both share some of our key experiences going through our own injuries and Jana talks about the following: Why the mental side of injury matters as much as the physical How injury recovery can mirror grief in practice Strategies for working with fear after injury Why tracking progress makes such a difference Reframing injury: challenge vs. threat Building resilience (vs. being born with it) The role of self-compassion in recovery Tools for managing negative thoughts What kind of support actually helps during recovery Why rehab consistency is tough — and what helps Growing into someone new, rather than ‘getting back’ to your old self The people at unblocd.com are offering you a 30% discount on all of their programs, including the new Injury Recovery program, and their mini programs at unblocd.com using the code “TRAININGBETA30” at checkout.

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